Гвоздика (пряність)

НатуральнийПРЯНОЩІпряний · теплий · солодкий
Ноти серцяПіраміда
3/5Сила
188годСтійкість
3Походження
Зразок
Гвоздика (пряність) як парфумерна сировина
Ноти серця
Syzygium aromaticum
Визначення

Dental office, mulled wine, a warm numbing bite. Clove is 80-90% eugenol — a single molecule dominance that gives it both its unmistakable identity and its anesthetic quality. Sharp, warm, medicinal, with a sweetness underneath.

Épicé
93
Chaleureux
79
Doux
43
Boisé
73
Terreux
59
Aromatique
25
clove buds, clove oil
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Пряні
Source
spice
Chemical class
complex natural (essential oil)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
3/5Сила
Середня
інтенсивність запаху
Стійкість на блотері
188годин · 8 днів
1 год6 год24 год3 дн.7 дн.400 год
Країни-виробники
Індонезія Мадагаскар Шрі-Ланка

Запах

Sharp, warm, sweet-spicy with a numbing-medicinal undertone. Hotter and more biting than cinnamon at equivalent concentrations, less complex than cardamom, more phenolic than nutmeg. The eugenol dominance gives it a dental-office directness that can overwhelm at high doses. At lower levels, a warm, sweet, almost fruity spice emerges — particularly from bud oil, where eugenyl acetate adds softness. The dry-down is woody-peppery from the beta-caryophyllene, surprisingly dry for such a warm note.

Теруар і хемотипи

Докладно

Clove (Syzygium aromaticum, Myrtaceae family) is a persistent tree native to the Maluku Islands of Indonesia. The "cloves" of commerce are the dried, unopened flower buds — harvested just before they bloom, when eugenol concentration is highest. The essential oil is steam-distilled from the buds, leaves, or stems, each yielding a different product.

Clove bud oil is the perfumery standard: 80-90% eugenol (4-allyl-2-methoxyphenol, CAS 97-53-0), with beta-caryophyllene (5-12%), eugenyl acetate (2-14%), and alpha-humulene in supporting roles. Clove leaf oil is cheaper and contains 82-88% eugenol but lacks the complexity of the bud oil — fewer esters, fewer sesquiterpenes. The difference is audible even to untrained noses.

Eugenol's dominance makes clove a molecularly simple natural essential oils. The scent is warm, sharp, sweet-spicy, with a particular numbing-medicinal quality (eugenol is a local anesthetic, which is why dentists historically used clove oil). Beta-caryophyllene adds a dry, woody, slightly peppery quality. Eugenyl acetate contributes a milder, fruitier sweetness that distinguishes bud oil from leaf oil.

Eugenol is classified as an IFRA-restricted allergen and must be declared on labels. In perfumery, it is used both as natural clove oil and as isolated eugenol — the molecule appears naturally in cinnamon leaf oil, bay leaf, and allspice as well. Its phenolic character links clove to the carnation accord (eugenol + isoeugenol + phenylethyl alcohol).

—

Related: Clove Leaf · Mace · Nutmeg

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Steam distillation of dried flower buds (bud oil), leaves (leaf oil), or stems (stem oil). Bud oil is the perfumery standard. Yield from buds: approximately 15-20% essential oil — one of the highest yields of any botanical, making clove oil relatively affordable. Major producers: Indonesia (approximately 70% of global production), Madagascar, Tanzania, Sri Lanka. The buds are harvested by hand when they turn pink but before they open — once the flower opens, the eugenol content drops significantly.

Формула
Complex mixture: eugenol (C₁₀H₁₂O₂, 70–90%), eugenyl acetate (C₁₂H₁₄O₃), β-caryophyllene (C₁₅H₂₄)
CAS
8000-34-8
Ботанічна назва
Syzygium aromaticum
Зовнішній вигляд
colorless to pale yellow clear liquid
Сила запаху
Середня
Стійкість
188 hours
Синоніми
clove buds, clove oil
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура кипіння
251.00 °C. @ 760.00 mm Hg
Температура спалаху
190.00 °F. TCC ( 87.78 °C. )
Відносна густина
1.03800 to 1.06000 @  25.00 °C.
Показник заломлення
1.52700 to 1.53500 @  20.00 °C.

У парфумерії

Clove is a heart note in spicy, amber, and carnation accords. The eugenol molecule is the building block of the carnation reconstruction (combined with isoeugenol, methyleugenol, and phenylethyl alcohol). Clove appears in amber compositions alongside cinnamon and vanilla, in chypre bases where its phenolic character echoes oakmoss, and in fougere constructions where it adds spicy warmth. The beta-caryophyllene component provides a woody bridge to base notes. Eugenol is IFRA-restricted; modern formulations often use eugenol at controlled percentages rather than crude clove oil. Clove bud oil is used in fine fragrance; leaf oil in functional products. The molecule also appears naturally in cinnamon leaf oil.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02модифікатор
03сполучний компонент
04формувач об’єму
05свіжість
Форми випуску
ефірна олія

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