Зелені пачулі

НатуральнийДЕРЕВИНА Й МОХИзелений · землистий · свіжий
Ноти серцяПіраміда
3/5Сила
—Стійкість
1Походження
Зразок
Зелені пачулі як парфумерна сировина
Ноти серця
Pogostemon cablin
Визначення

Raw, leafy, camphoraceous patchouli -- the smell of freshly harvested leaves before drying and fermentation darken the character. Green stems and bright earth, not hippie incense.

Boisé
100
Terreux
97
Vert
71
Fumé
63
Résineux
42
Doux
27
PATCHOULY POGOSTEMON
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Деревні
Chemical class
complex natural (essential oil)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
3/5Сила
Середня
інтенсивність запаху
Країни-виробники
Індонезія

Запах

Bright, camphoraceous, and leafy. Like tearing fresh patchouli leaves from the stem -- the snap of green plant matter, a rush of camphor, damp earth, and none of the sweet-musty depth of aged oil. Lighter, cleaner, and more transparent than traditional patchouli.

Теруар і зрілість

Докладно

Green patchouli refers to patchouli essential oil or fraction obtained from freshly harvested, minimally processed leaves of Pogostemon cablin, as opposed to the traditional material made from dried and fermented leaves. The distinction is critical: conventional patchouli oil (the dark, earthy, sweet-musty material familiar from the 1960s counterculture) gains its character from enzymatic fermentation during the drying process. Green patchouli skips or minimizes this step.

The result is a markedly different olfactory profile: brighter, more camphoraceous, greener, and less sweet than traditional patchouli. The dominant impression is of fresh, crushed plant matter rather than aged, composted leaves. The camphor and eucalyptol content is higher relative to patchoulol, which gives the material its lighter, more transparent character.

Some producers achieve green patchouli via molecular distillation or CO2 extraction of fresh (undried) leaves. Others use light fractionation of conventional oil to remove the heavier, darker fractions.

In perfumery, green patchouli serves a different function from its aged counterpart. It provides earthy-green grounding without the heavy, hippy-incense associations. It works in modern, clean, and unisex woody compositions where traditional patchouli would be too dark.

—

Related: Dark Patchouli · Patchouli

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Steam distillation of fresh (undried) Pogostemon cablin leaves, or molecular distillation/CO2 extraction to preserve green character. Alternatively, light fractionation of conventional patchouli oil to remove heavier fractions.

Формула
Complex mixture — key component: patchoulol (C₁₅H₂₆O)
CAS
8014-09-3
Ботанічна назва
Pogostemon cablin
Зовнішній вигляд
yellowish amber to orange brown clear liquid
Сила запаху
Середня
Синоніми
PATCHOULY POGOSTEMON
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура спалаху
215.00 °F. TCC ( 101.67 °C. )
Відносна густина
0.92500 to 0.94000 @ 25.00 °C.
Показник заломлення
1.50600 to 1.51600 @ 20.00 °C.

У парфумерії

Heart-to-base note in modern woody, clean-earthy, and unisex compositions. Functions as a lighter, greener alternative to traditional fermented patchouli. Higher camphor-to-patchoulol ratio gives it brightness and transparency. Works alongside vetiver, cedar, and citrus in contemporary woody formulas. Useful where earthy grounding is needed without the heavy, sweet-musty character of aged patchouli.

Роль у формулі
01модифікатор
02фірмова нота
03формувач об’єму
04свіжість
Форми випуску
ефірна олія

Див. також

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