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Raspršivač Flakon parfema: od rimske amfore do spreja
U bilo kojoj robnoj kući na svetu možete da izvedete probu, a rezultat će svaki put biti isti.
Otrov Catherine de Medici: kraljica koja je parfem donela u Francusku (a sa njim i otrov)
Dana 28. oktobra 1533. četrnaestogodišnja devojka iz Firence udala se za drugog sina kralja Franje I na svečanosti u Marseju.
Kolonjska voda The Eau de Cologne: How an Italian Merchant Invented Modern Luxury
In the first decade of the eighteenth century, a young Italian from the town of Santa Maria Maggiore in the Val Vigezzo, near the Swiss border, established himself in the German city of Cologne and began producing an ...
Versaj Versaj je mirisao na smrt: higijena i parfem u Velikom veku
Versajska palata, u najraskošnijem obliku dovršena krajem sedamnaestog veka, bila je najveća i najskuplja stambena zgrada u Evropi. U vreme najveće naseljenosti u njoj je živelo otprilike 10.000 ljudi: kraljevska poro...
Svila Put tamjana: put svile koji niko ne poznaje
Put stariji od svile, stariji od začina, stariji od svakog robnog puta koji udžbenici žele da zapamte.
Kifi Kifi: kako su Egipćani spaljivali šesnaest sastojaka da bi govorili sa bogovima
Pri zalasku sunca, u hramovima starog Egipta, počinjao je ritual koji je trajao satima. Nije to bila žrtva životinja, ni povorka sveštenika, ni recitovanje molitvi, iako je bilo i svega toga. Bilo je to nešto jednosta...
Maslac Iris of Florence: Three Years Underground for an Ounce of Butter
According to raw material price surveys from the Society of Flavor Chemists and industry sources, the most expensive natural material in perfumery does not come from a flower. It comes from a root, more precisely, a r...
Berba Jasmin sambac: cvet koji se bere samo noću
U selima u okolini Maduraja, u južnoindijskoj državi Tamil Nadu, radni dan berača jasmina počinje u tri ujutru.
Ruža Rose de Mai: Five Thousand Kilos of Petals for One Litre
A number in perfumery that sounds like a mistranslation. To produce one kilogram of Rose de Mai absolute, the concentrated aromatic extract of Rosa centifolia, the hundred-petalled rose of Grasse, you need between fou...
Arhipelag Ylang-Ylang: The Flower That Feeds an Archipelago
The Comoros archipelago sits in the northern Mozambique Channel, between the eastern coast of Africa and the northern tip of Madagascar, in waters warm enough to grow coral and volatile enough to grow coups. There are...
Parija Patchouli: Rehabilitation of an Olfactory Pariah
Ask someone who does not work in perfumery to name the single smell they associate with the 1960s counterculture, and they will say patchouli.
Neodbranjivo Civet: Chronicle of an Ingredient That Became Indefensible
A small building on the outskirts of Jimma, in the Ethiopian highlands, where the air smells like nothing you have ever encountered and everything you would prefer to forget. The smell is fecal and floral at once, an ...
Dabar Kastoreum: izlučevina dabra sa kožnim mirisom
Počnimo od anatomije, jer je anatomija suština. Pri korenu repa dabra, između karlice i kože, nalaze se dva para žlezdanih organa. Prvi par su kese kastoreuma, zapravo ne prave žlezde nego kesice obložene žlezdanim ep...
Crkva Benzoin: kadilo crkava koje je postalo bazna nota
U planinskim šumama Laosa, na padinama gde pada dovoljno kiše da se održi gusta tropska krošnja, a nadmorska visina rashladi vazduh gotovo do umerene blagosti, raste drvo koje se vekovima namerno ranjava. To je Styrax...
Koze Labdanum: The Resin That Goats Harvest Without Knowing
A plant that grows on the dry, sun-hammered hillsides of the Mediterranean, on Crete, on Cyprus, across the Iberian Peninsula, in the scrublands of North Africa, whose leaves exude a dark, aromatic resin so sticky tha...
Tamjan Frankincense: 5,000 Years of Sacred Commerce
Before silk, before spices, before tea, before opium, there was resin.
Koncentracija The Concentration Lie: Why an Eau de Toilette Can Outperform an Extrait
A lie repeated so often in perfumery that it has calcified into received wisdom. It goes like this: Eau de Toilette is weaker than Eau de Parfum, which is weaker than Extrait de Parfum, which sits at the apex of quali...
Geopolitika Vetiver from Haiti: Geopolitics of a Root
The root is ugly. There is no way around this. Chrysopogon zizanioides does not flower in any way that matters, does not fruit, does not present itself to the world with the calculated beauty of a rose or the baroque ...
Formula Why Your Favourite Perfume Changed (And Nobody Told You)
You wore it for years. You knew it the way you know the sound of your own front door closing, not something you think about, just something that belongs to you. Then one day you sprayed it and something was off. Not d...
Akord The Accord: When One Plus One Equals Three
A moment in every perfumer's education, usually early, usually humbling, when the student realizes that knowing materials is not the same as knowing perfumery. You can memorize a thousand molecules. You can identify l...
Rečnik Absolute, Concrete, Resinoid: The Lexicon Nobody Masters
A particular kind of ignorance thrives not in the absence of information but in its abundance. The vocabulary of perfumery extraction is a case study.
CO2 Superkritična ekstrakcija CO2: treći put
Postoji trenutak, ako ste ikada zdrobili list crne ribizle među prstima, kada je miris koji se podigne toliko potpun, toliko slojevit, toliko očigledno živ, da odmah razumete zašto nijedan parfem sa crnom ribizlom nik...
Akord gole kože What the pH of Your Skin Does to a Perfumer's Formula
The perfumer works in a room kept at twenty degrees Celsius, humidity controlled, surrounded by thousands of raw materials catalogued by CAS number and vapor pressure. She dips a mouillette, a paper strip, into the la...
Kovid Smell Training: How Covid Created a Scientific Discipline
A particular kind of terror in losing a sense you never thought about. Not blindness, which the imagination rehearses.