Apsolut tuberoze
Tuberose absolute is an extract of the blossoms of Polianthes tuberosa L., used in modern, floral perfume compositions. It has a sweet, narcotic blossom odor.
- Type
- Sirovina
- Olfactive family
- Cvetni
- Source
- flower
- Chemical class
- natural mixture (absolute)
Miris
Teroar i poreklo
Detaljno
Zanimljivosti
The Aztecs called the tuberose the bone flower, for the white colour of its blooms. The volatile emission of tuberose is rhythmic, with peak levels of benzyl benzoate from evening until midnight and relatively low levels during the day.
Dobijanje i hemija
Način dobijanja
Tuberose absolute is obtained by solvent extraction, via the concrete, from the blossoms of Polianthes tuberosa L. In the general method for absolutes, plant material is extracted with a hydrocarbon solvent such as hexane to yield a concrete, and the concrete is then extracted with ethanol. The ethanol extract is cooled to solidify waxes and cold filtered to yield a liquid extract. When the ethanol evaporates, an oil, the absolute, is left behind. The concrete is obtained in approximately 1.20 to 1.50% yields and is a soft mass with a yellowish-brown color and a sweet, floral, extremely intense odor. One producer sources tuberose concrete from producers in India and processes the absolute at a factory in southwestern France. There are two harvest periods per year for the production of tuberose concrete. In enfleurage, the fat that holds the fragrance is called pomade, and washing it with ethyl alcohol draws the fragrant molecules into the alcohol. The alcohol was then separated from the fat and waxes and allowed to evaporate, leaving the absolute. Cold enfleurage is used for flowers too fragile to be heated, such as jasmine, daffodil and tuberose. In cold enfleurage, flowers are placed by hand on a layer of fat, and the operation is repeated several times until the fat is saturated with their perfume. In enfleurage, 1 kg of fat could absorb 3 kg of flowers. Delicate flowers such as jasmine and tuberose would be destroyed or denatured by the high temperatures of steam distillation, so enfleurage was the sole method of extracting their fragrant compounds. Enfleurage is now superseded by more efficient techniques such as solvent extraction or supercritical fluid extraction with carbon dioxide. New enfleurage initiatives are being practiced again in Grasse, notably for tuberose.
- Formula
- Complex natural mixture (key constituents: esters of benzoic acid)
- CAS
- 8024-05-3
- Botanički naziv
- Polianthes tuberosa L.
- Izgled
- Orange reddish brown thick paste (est)
- Trajnost
- 304 hour(s) at 100.00 %
- Sinonimi
- Tuberose absolute (from pommade), tuberose absolute (from concrete)
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
- Tačka paljenja
- > 200.00 °F. TCC ( > 93.33 °C. )
- Relativna gustina
- 0.92000 to 0.98000 @ 25.00 °C.
- Indeks prelamanja
- 1.48000 to 1.52000 @ 20.00 °C.
U parfemima
In fine perfumery and cosmetics, it is used in floral fragrances, oriental notes and exotic notes tinged with vanilla and tiaré. It gives the composition a powerful effect. Tuberose remains a popular floral note for perfumes, either in stand-alone tuberose fragrances or mixed floral scents. The essence is overpowering and can become sickly to the wearer, so tuberose generally must be used in moderation. A usage level of up to 3.0% in the fragrance concentrate is recommended. It blends well with raspberry notes.
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