Amberever

АкордМУСКУСИ Й АМБРОВІ АКОРДИамбровий · теплий · деревний
Базові нотиПіраміда
—Сила
—Стійкість
—Походження

Редакційна приміткаМи не маємо жодних прав на цей матеріал, його назву чи торговельну марку. Ця стаття глосарію є незалежною редакційною журналістикою й опублікована на підставі свободи вираження поглядів.

Зразок
Amberever як парфумерна сировина
Базові ноти
Визначення

In perfumery, scents called amber are often created to emulate the golden warmth of fossil amber, which itself gives off very little scent. The term amber is loosely used to describe a scent that is warm, musky, rich and honey-like, and also somewhat earthy.

ДЕРЕВНИЙ СОЛОДКИЙ АМБРОВИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ СМОЛИСТИЙ
Type
Акорд
Olfactive family
Амброві й мускусні
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти

Запах

Burning fossil amber gives off a characteristic pinewood fragrance. Labdanum, the main ingredient of the amber scent, has an odour variously described as amber, sweet, woody, powdery, fruity, animalic, ambergris, dry musk, or leathery.

Докладно

Amber as a perfumery term

Modern perfumes do not normally use actual amber, because fossilized amber produces very little scent. The scent of amber was originally derived from emulating the scent of ambergris and/or the plant resin labdanum. Since sperm whales are endangered, the scent of amber is now largely derived from labdanum.

Materials of the amber scent

Amber perfumes may be created using combinations of labdanum, benzoin resin, copal, vanilla, Dammara resin and/or synthetic materials. Benzoin is usually part of the recipe, and vanilla and cloves are sometimes used to enhance the aroma. Labdanum is the main ingredient used when making the scent of amber in perfumery, as well as chypre fragrances. Labdanum is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer and Cistus creticus. Benzoin resin is common in perfumery because of its sweet vanilla-like aroma and fixative properties.

Ambergris and ambroxide

Ambergris has been highly valued by perfume makers as a fixative, although it has been mostly replaced by synthetic ambroxide. Ambroxide is used in perfumery for creating ambergris notes and as a fixative. Ambroxide is synthesized from sclareol, a component of the essential oil of clary sage.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

—

Related: Alder · Alpha Humulene · Amaranth · Amburana Bark · Antillone · Apple Tree · Araucaria

Цікавий факт

Ambergris is less dense than water and floats, whereas amber is denser and floats only in concentrated saline, or strong salty seawater. Yellow amber and ambergris may have been confused because both were found washed up on beaches. In past times, oil of amber was combined carefully with nitric acid to create "artificial musk", a resin with a peculiar musky odor. In ancient times, labdanum was collected by combing the beards and thighs of goats and sheep that had grazed on the cistus shrubs.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Labdanum, the main ingredient of the amber scent, yields a raw resin that is usually extracted by boiling the leaves and twigs. An absolute is also obtained by solvent extraction, and an essential oil by steam distillation.

Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

У парфумерії

Amber, or Oriental, is a large fragrance class featuring sweet, slightly animalic scents of ambergris or labdanum, often combined with vanilla, tonka bean, flowers and woods. Amber is one of the five main families of the fragrance wheel created in 1983 by Michael Edwards. Many resins, wood scents and amber bases are used as fixatives. Labdanum is valued in perfumery for its resemblance to ambergris, which has been banned from use in many countries. Benzoin is used in perfumery as a fixative, slowing the dispersion of essential oils and other fragrance materials into the air. Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous secretion of fossil conifers.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02модифікатор
03кістяк
04фірмова нота
05сполучний компонент
06формувач об’єму
Форми випуску
стандартна форма

Див. також

7 ноти
Пачулі Андіроба деревний · землистий · насичений Кедр деревний · сухий · чистий Ветивер землистий · деревний · димний Javanol деревний · вершковий · чистий Ambermax™ амбровий · теплий · деревний Ambertonic™ амбровий · теплий · бальзамічний
Сім екстрактів
INSULINE SAFRINE DOPPEL DANCERS ALBÂTRE SÉPIA GRAVITAS CAPITALE SIMILI MIRAGE ROSE MONOTONE NUIT ÉLASTIQUE DISCOVERY SET
Парфумерний глосарій PREMIEREPEAU →