Ambrocenide

Background

Woody, ambery notes in perfume were once obtained from ambergris, a substance from the digestive tract of sperm whales that was difficult to obtain and expensive. Ambrocenide comes close to ambergris with an intense, long-lasting scent.

Chemistry and origin

Ambrocenide has the molecular formula C₁₈H₃₀O₂ and a molecular weight of 278.4. It is not found in nature. It is supplied as crystals and as dilutions, for example 10 % in dipropylene glycol.

Cedrene, a terpene, is a substance from the essential oil of cedars and the starting material for Ambrocenide. The conversion also gives other molecules of the product that lack the fragrance. These have the same molecular formula and the same atom linkage, but a different spatial arrangement.

A newer process was developed at the Leibniz Institute for Catalysis in Rostock, Germany, in collaboration with a fragrance house. It is highly selective, needs fewer reaction steps and gives a higher yield than the original process.

Sensory effects

Research has shown that ambrocenide induces trigeminal nerve reactions at a range of concentrations, felt as a burning or stinging sensation. This effect can occur even at low concentrations, and 77.08% of participants reported it. The effect is primarily attributable to ambrocenide itself rather than the solvent, ethanol.

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