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The animal materials

Musk was originally the name of a strong-smelling substance obtained from a gland of the musk deer. The African civet, Civettictis civetta, has historically been the main species from which a musky scent used in perfumery, also called civet, was obtained. Castoreum is a yellowish exudate from the castor sacs of mature beavers. Ambergris is a solid, waxy, flammable substance of a dull grey or blackish colour produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. Hyraceum is the petrified, rock-like excrement made of the urine and feces of the rock hyrax.

Ambergris is formed from a secretion of the bile duct in the intestines of the sperm whale. It takes years to form. The author Christopher Kemp states that it is produced only by sperm whales, and by an estimated one percent of them. After months to years of photodegradation and oxidation in the ocean, the pale, soft precursor hardens into a dark grey or black, crusty and waxy material. In this state its specific gravity ranges from 0.780 to 0.926, so it floats in water.

Chemistry

Muscone is a macrocyclic ketone and the main contributor to the odor of deer musk. Civetone is a macrocyclic ketone and the main odorous constituent of civet oil. Oxidation of ambrein, which is relatively scentless, produces ambroxide and ambrinol, the main odour components of ambergris. At least 24 compounds are known constituents of beaver castoreum. Some plants, such as Angelica archangelica and Abelmoschus moschatus, produce musky-smelling macrocyclic lactone compounds.

Supply and ethics

Hyraceum accumulates extremely slowly, which makes it essentially a non-renewable resource. Because no animal is harmed in harvesting it, hyraceum is often an ethical substitute for deer musk and civet, which require killing or inflicting pain on the animal. Between ethical concerns and the availability of synthetic substitutes, the practice of raising civets for musk is dying out. Today the trade in natural musk is controlled by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, but illegal poaching and trading continues.

History

Musk has been used as a popular perfume fixative since ancient times. Natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until the late 19th century, when economic and ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk. During the Black Death in Europe, people believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could help prevent plague.

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Related: Aldambre · Ambrarome · Ambrein · Ambreine · Ambrettolide · Ambronova · Ammonia · Beeswax