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НатуральнийКВІТИквітковий · пряний · зелений
Ноти серцяПіраміда
—Сила
12годСтійкість
3Походження
Зразок
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Ноти серця
Dianthus caryophyllus
Визначення

Spicy-clove floralcy with a powdery, almost peppery warmth. Carnation absolute smells like eugenol wrapped in velvet — dry, restrained, with a honeyed sweetness beneath the spice.

КВІТКОВИЙ ПРЯНИЙ ЗЕЛЕНИЙ СОЛОДКИЙ
Dianthus caryophyllus absolute, Clove Pink absolute
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Пряні
Source
flower
Chemical class
complex natural (absolute)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
Стійкість на блотері
12годин
1 год6 год24 год3 дн.7 дн.400 год
Країни-виробники
Єгипет Франція Індія

Запах

Immediate spicy-clove impact, warm and almost edible. Beneath the eugenol, a powdery-honeyed floralcy emerges — softer and more textured than pure clove. Slightly peppery with green-herbaceous undertones. Drier than rose, spicier than jasmine. The dry-down is warm, balsamic, and subtly animalic.

Докладно

Obtained from the flowers of Dianthus caryophyllus, the common carnation. The absolute is dark reddish-brown and viscous, with an intense clove-spice-floral character. Production is limited, with Egypt and southern France as historical sources.

The dominant impression is eugenol — the same molecule that defines clove bud. But in carnation, this spicy character is softened by floral, honeyed, and slightly powdery qualities that clove oil lacks. There are green, herbaceous undertones, a faintly peppery bite, and a warm, balsamic dry-down. Other significant aroma compounds include benzyl benzoate, benzyl salicylate, methyl salicylate, and isoeugenol.

Carnation was once a pillar of men's perfumery — the 'oeillet' note in classic fougères and chypres. Its spicy-floral character bridges the gap between aromatic herbs and warm ambers. Today, natural carnation absolute is rare; most carnation accords are built synthetically from eugenol, isoeugenol, and phenylethyl alcohol with additional floral and spicy modifiers.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

—

Related: Accord Eudora · African Marigold · Alpha Amylcinnamaldehyde · Alyssum · Angels Trumpet · Aquaflora · Ashoka Flower · Aurantiol

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Solvent extraction of fresh flowers yields a concrete, then an absolute. Yields are low — approximately 0.1-0.2% from flowers to concrete. The material is labor-intensive to produce and the flowers are fragile. Egyptian production historically dominated; French production (Grasse) is now negligible. Enfleurage was the traditional method before solvent extraction became standard.

Формула
complex mixture (eugenol C₁₀H₁₂O₂, methyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate)
CAS
8021-43-0
Ботанічна назва
Dianthus caryophyllus
Зовнішній вигляд
yellow-green to olive clear liquid
Стійкість
6–12 hours
Синоніми
Dianthus caryophyllus absolute, Clove Pink absolute
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура кипіння
197.00 °C. @ 760.00 mm Hg
Температура спалаху
165.00 °F. TCC ( 73.89 °C. )
Відносна густина
0.88700 to 0.89200 @ 25.00 °C.
Показник заломлення
1.46600 to 1.47000 @ 20.00 °C.

У парфумерії

Heart note in spicy-floral, fougère, and chypre compositions. Carnation absolute — or its reconstruction — provides the bridge between aromatic-herbal top notes and warm ambery bases. It is central to classic oeillet accords and masculine florals. The eugenol content links it functionally to clove, while the floral qualities connect to rose and tuberose. Synthetic carnation bases typically combine eugenol, isoeugenol, phenylethyl alcohol, methyl salicylate, and ylang-ylang fractions. In contemporary use, carnation has shifted from mainstream to niche, where its retro-restrained character is valued.

Роль у формулі
01фірмова нота
02модифікатор
03сполучний компонент
Форми випуску
абсолют

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