Суха троянда: натуральний чи синтетичний матеріал?

Натуральний матеріал.

Суха троянда

НатуральнийКВІТИквітковий · пудровий · насичений

Ноти серцяПіраміда

—Сила

—Стійкість

3Походження

Зразок

Суха троянда як парфумерна сировина — Ноти серця

Rosa × damascena / Rosa × centifolia

Визначення

Dried flowers are a common component of potpourri, a mixture of dried, naturally fragrant plant materials used to provide a gentle natural scent.

rose essential oil, otto of roses, attar of roses, rose essence

Type: Складник
Olfactive family: Квіткові

Інструменти

Піраміда

ВВерхні ноти

СНоти серця

ББазові ноти

Країни-виробники

Болгарія Марокко Туреччина

Запах

Rose oil otto is described as floral, sweet and spicy, with wine and rose facets. In a blend of Turkish and Bulgarian oil, the warm, metallic aldehyde notes combine with citrus effects. The by-absolute made from spent rose blossoms is a warm, sweet floral, deep and slightly animalic, with notes of tart dried fruit, tea and leather that last throughout the drydown. Rosa × centifolia has a clear, sweet fragrance with light notes of honey.

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Теруар і походження

Докладно

Dried rose petals

Dried flowers are a common component of potpourri, a mixture of dried, naturally fragrant plant materials used to provide a gentle natural scent. Rose flowers, hips or oil are among the plant materials used in potpourri.

Twenty volatile compounds were identified in fresh, stored and dried petals of the oil-bearing rose Rosa damascena. The petals were dried by convective drying at 40, 50 and 60 °C. Phenylethyl alcohol, citronellol, geranyl acetate and nonadecane predominated under all treatments.

The roses

Rosa damascena and Rosa centifolia are the two major rose species cultivated for rose oil. Rosa × damascena is a cultivated flower not found in the wild. Rosa × centifolia, the cabbage rose, is a hybrid rose developed by Dutch breeders between the 17th and 19th centuries, possibly earlier. The Rosa centifolia absolute is composed of more than 50% phenylethyl alcohol, and the rest of its composition resembles that of Rosa damascena.

Chemistry of rose oil

The key components β-damascenone, β-damascone, other damascones, beta-ionone and rose oxide usually make up less than 1% of rose oil, yet they account for slightly more than 90% of its odor content because of their low odor detection thresholds. The presence of beta-damascenone is considered the marker for the quality of rose oil.

Beta-damascenone takes its name from Rosa damascena. The aroma of beta-damascenone is described as apple, rose, honey, tobacco and sweet. Rose oxide is a fragrance chemical found in roses and rose oil. Only the (-)-cis isomer of rose oxide, with an odor threshold of 0.5 ppb, is responsible for the typical rose (floral green) fragrance. Phenethyl alcohol, or 2-phenylethanol, has a soft odor, like roses.

Because of the heat required for distillation, some of the compounds extracted from the rose break down chemically, and rose attar does not smell very similar to fresh roses.

—

Цікавий факт

Beta-damascenone seems not to be detectable in rose petals, yet it is present in rose oil, so it must form from a precursor compound, possibly by heating. The typical yield of rose oil can be approximately 1:3,000, depending on extraction method and plant species.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Steam distillation produces rose otto, also called attar of roses, and solvent extraction produces rose absolute. Flowers are harvested by hand in the morning before sunrise, and the material is distilled the same day. In distillation, large stills, traditionally of copper, are filled with roses and water. The still is fired for 60-105 minutes. The vaporized water and rose oil leave the still, pass into a condensing apparatus and are collected in a flask. In solvent extraction, the flowers are agitated in a vat with a solvent such as hexane, which draws out the aroma compounds as well as other soluble substances such as wax and pigments. The extract is put under vacuum to remove the solvent, which is reused. The remaining waxy mass is known as a concrete. Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction yields a concrete that may be marketed as a concrete, absolute or CO2 extract.

Формула: Complex natural mixture (key constituents: phenylethyl alcohol C₈H₁₀O; citronellol; geranyl acetate; nonadecane)
CAS: 8007-01-0
Ботанічна назва: Rosa × damascena / Rosa × centifolia
Зовнішній вигляд: Colorless to pale yellow liquid to solid
Синоніми: rose essential oil, otto of roses, attar of roses, rose essence

Статус IFRA

Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості

Температура спалаху: 139 °F (TCC)
Відносна густина: 0.84800 to 0.86800 @ 25 °C
Показник заломлення: 1.45900 to 1.47200 @ 20 °C

У парфумерії

Rose oils are still perhaps the essential oil used most in perfumery. The absolute is used more commonly in perfumery than the otto. Phenylethyl alcohol is a common ingredient in flavors and perfumery, particularly when the odor of rose is desired.

Роль у формулі

01підсилювач дифузії

02модифікатор

03фірмова нота

04сполучний компонент

05формувач об’єму

06свіжість

Форми випуску

стандартна форма

Див. також

7 ноти

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