Резеда (mignonette)
Green, slightly spicy, raspberry-like floral — modest in appearance but richly complex in scent. Mignonette smells like a cool-weather garden after light rain.
- Type
- Складник
- Olfactive family
- Квіткові
- Source
- flowers
- Chemical class
- complex natural
Запах
Теруар і походження
Докладно
Цікавий факт
Mignonette was so popular in 19th-century Paris that the French government reportedly considered banning window boxes of the flower because the scent attracted such large crowds that they blocked narrow streets.
Отримання й хімія
Спосіб отримання
No commercial extraction exists for Reseda odorata. The flower's oil content is too low for viable absolute production. Enfleurage was historically used in Grasse but is no longer practiced commercially for this material. The note is entirely reconstructed from synthetic components.
- Формула
- Complex mixture — key odorant: damascenone (C₁₃H₁₈O)
- CAS
- 91721-98-1
- Ботанічна назва
- Reseda odorata
- Зовнішній вигляд
- Colorless to pale yellow liquid
- Сила запаху
- Середня
- Синоніми
- SWEET RESEDA RESEDA
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
- Нота
- Mignonette (Reseda odorata) absolute. Delicate green-floral-herbal scent. Extremely low oil yield. Key volatiles include linalool, geraniol, and raspberry ketone derivatives.
У парфумерії
Mignonette is a fantasy note reconstructed from ionones (violet), damascenone (fruity-rose), green aldehydes, and spicy materials (benzyl isothiocyanate analogues). Functions as a complex floral heart note in garden-realist, green-floral, and Victorian-inspired compositions. Its unusual green-spicy-fruity character distinguishes it from cleaner white florals. Once hugely popular in classical perfumery, now rarely referenced — reviving it signals historical literacy.
Див. також
7 ноти