Мускус шкіри: натуральний чи синтетичний матеріал?

Фантазійна або концептуальна нота, а не окремий матеріал.

Мускус шкіри

АкордМУСКУС, АМБРОВИЙ АКОРД, ТВАРИННІ ЗАПАХИмускусний · теплий · пудровий

Базові нотиПіраміда

—Сила

—Стійкість

—Походження

Зразок

Мускус шкіри як парфумерна сировина — Базові ноти

Фантазійний/концептуальний

Визначення

Musky notes, also called white musks, group soft, cottony, very tenacious and comfortable scents that give a sensation of cashmere or baby skin.

СОЛОДКИЙ ПУДРОВИЙ МУСКУСНИЙ ТВАРИННИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ СВІЖИЙ СУХИЙ

musky notes, white musks

Type: Акорд
Olfactive family: Амброві й мускусні
Source: Synthetic musks (nitro, polycyclic and macrocyclic classes)

Інструменти

Піраміда

ВВерхні ноти

СНоти серця

ББазові ноти

Стійкість на блотері

Very tenacious

Запах

Synthetic musks have a clean, smooth and sweet scent that lacks the fecal notes of animal musks. Habanolide smells of clean musk with metallic hot-iron or pressed-linen nuances and a soft, powdery warmth. Natural musk is usually described as animalistic, earthy and woody, or as something akin to the odor of baby's skin.

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Докладно

Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. Natural musk was used extensively in perfumery until the late 19th century, when economic and ethical motives led to the adoption of synthetic musk.

Synthetic musks fall into three major classes: aromatic nitro musks, polycyclic musk compounds and macrocyclic musk compounds. Nitro musks were first discovered in an attempt to produce new high explosives. Galaxolide is a polycyclic musk. Macrocyclic musk compounds are expected to replace the nitro and polycyclic musks because they appear to be safer.

Among macrocyclic musks, muscone is a slightly animalic note, muscenone a powdery note and Habanolide a woody and powdery note. Exaltolide is a floral and angelic note, close to ambrette.

Under the IFRA Standards, musk xylene is prohibited, while musk ketone falls under a specification.

Muscone, a macrocyclic ketone, is the organic compound primarily responsible for the characteristic odor of musk. Synthetic musks are lipophilic compounds and tend to deposit and persist in fat tissues.

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Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Since obtaining deer musk requires killing the endangered animal, nearly all musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic. Natural musk comes from the pod of the male musk deer; on drying, the reddish-brown paste inside turns into a black granular material called musk grain, which is then tinctured with alcohol. An artificial musk was obtained by Albert Baur in 1888 by condensing toluene with isobutyl bromide in the presence of aluminium chloride and nitrating the product.

Стійкість: Very tenacious
Синоніми: musky notes, white musks

Статус IFRA

Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

У парфумерії

Musks are commonly used as base notes in perfumery. Synthetic musks serve as fixatives and supply the base note of many perfume formulas. Natural musk has been held to give a perfume long-lasting power as a fixative. Synthetic musks are also used in cosmetics, detergents and foods, as flavorings and fixatives. Macrocyclic lactones from some plants are used as substitutes for animal musk or to alter the smell of a mixture of other musks.

Роль у формулі

01модифікатор

02кістяк

03сполучний компонент

04свіжість

Форми випуску

парфумерний акорд

Див. також

7 ноти

Мускус тваринний · чистий · акорд шкіри Амбровий акорд теплий · смолистий · солодкий Cashmeran мускусний · деревний · пряний Боби тонка Ambroxan деревний · амбровий · мускусний Тальк пудровий · металічний · мускусний Кораловий риф акватичний · свіжий · мускусний

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