Квітка тіаре: натуральний чи синтетичний матеріал?

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Квітка тіаре

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Gardenia taitensis

Визначення

Tiare (Gardenia taitensis) is an evergreen tropical shrub of the family Rubiaceae, native to the highland shores of the South Pacific. The flower has a creamy, sweet fragrance.

КВІТКОВИЙ СОЛОДКИЙ ВЕРШКОВИЙ ЕКЗОТИЧНИЙ СОНЯЧНИЙ

Tiaré, Tahitian gardenia, Tiaré flower, Tiaré Tahiti, Tiaré Maohi

Type: Складник
Olfactive family: Квіткові
Source: flower

Інструменти

Піраміда

ВВерхні ноти

СНоти серця

ББазові ноти

Запах

The white flowers have a sweet and bewitching scent reminiscent of jasmine. The fragrance of the flower is creamy and sweet. The scent is soft and floral, with exotic and solar nuances. The blooms are extremely fragrant. Flowers of the genus Gardenia, to which tiaré belongs, have a strong sweet scent.

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Докладно

Botany

Gardenia taitensis is an evergreen tropical shrub that grows to 4 m tall. Its glossy dark green leaves are 5-16 cm long and oppositely arranged along the stem. The flower is creamy white and pinwheel-shaped, with 5-9 lobes, each 2-4 cm long, and fragrant.

It is the national flower of French Polynesia and the Cook Islands. The plant originates from Melanesia and Western Polynesia. It is an aboriginal introduction to the Cook Islands and French Polynesia. The name Tahitian gardenia is somewhat a misnomer because the plant is neither native nor naturalized in Tahiti.

Monoï

The flower is used to make monoï oil, which is used mainly for cosmetic purposes as a hair or skin treatment. Monoï is a Tahitian word meaning "scented oil".

The 1992 decree reserves the appellation Monoï de Tahiti to products made in French Polynesia by macerating flowers of Gardenia taitensis in refined coconut oil. The tiaré flowers must come from Tahiti and its islands, and the coconut oil from nuts grown exclusively on the coral soils of French Polynesia.

Composition

More than 150 components have been identified in the hexane concrete of the flowers. The major oxygenated constituents include dihydroconiferyl acetate (12.2%), benzyl benzoate (6.2%), 2-phenylethyl benzoate (6.2%), linalool (4.4%), methyl salicylate (2.5%) and benzyl salicylate (2.5%). The identification of numerous dihydroconiferyl esters appears to be unique to this species.

Uses

Polynesian people use the extremely fragrant blooms in their flower necklaces, which are called "Ei" in the Cook Islands, "Hei" in Tahiti and "Lei" in Hawaii. In Tonga a bark infusion is dripped into the nose, eyes, and mouth to treat ghost sickness. In Samoa, parts of the plant are used for inflammation. Many Polynesians enjoy placing a few tiaré flowers on a small, water-filled saucer to release the fragrance throughout their houses.

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Історія

The date when monoï was first created is unknown, but its origins can be traced back 2000 years to the Maohi people, the indigenous Polynesians. Early European explorers, including James Cook, documented the natives' use of monoï for medicinal, cosmetic and religious purposes.

The plant was first collected in Tahiti by the Forsters on Captain Cook's first Pacific voyage (1768-1771), although it was misidentified as Gardenia jasminoides. The first acceptable scientific name was based on Tahitian specimens collected by Jules Dumont d'Urville in 1824.

The idea of developing industrial production of monoï tiare was born in 1942 with the establishment of the first Polynesian cosmetics company. In 1988 the monoï industry was organized to combat counterfeit products, which made up 80% of the monoï sold on international markets at the time. The Appellation of Origin was awarded to Monoï de Tahiti on 1 April 1992.

Цікавий факт

In some Pacific island traditions, wearing a flower indicates relationship status. A flower worn on the left ear means the person is taken and on the right ear means available.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

For monoï, tiaré flowers are macerated in refined coconut (coprah) oil for at least ten days, at a rate of at least ten flowers per litre of oil. This method is similar to enfleurage in perfumery. The flowers are picked at the bud stage and used fresh, within 24 hours of picking at the latest. The coconuts must have dried in the sun for at least a week before the oil is extracted. A hexane concrete of the flowers has also been prepared and analysed.

Формула: Complex natural mixture (key constituents: dihydroconiferyl acetate; benzyl benzoate; 2-phenylethyl benzoate; linalool; methyl salicylate)
CAS: 683748-01-8
Ботанічна назва: Gardenia taitensis
Зовнішній вигляд: Creamy white, pinwheel-shaped flower
Синоніми: Tiaré, Tahitian gardenia, Tiaré flower, Tiaré Tahiti, Tiaré Maohi

Статус IFRA

Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

У парфумерії

Tiaré is used in niche perfumery, but its prohibitively high cost excludes it from commercial perfumery. A gardenia note is otherwise a re-creation from other materials, because gardenia flowers do not release a natural oil. In one natural gardenia perfume, tiare absolute is combined with jasmine grandiflorum absolute, benzyl acetate, castoreum, ethyl phenyl acetate and maltol. No PREMIEREPEAU fragrance currently features a dominant tiare note.

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Див. також

6 ноти

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