Листя фіалки

НатуральнийЗЕЛЕНІ НОТИ, ТРАВИ Й ФУЖЕРНІ АКОРДИзелений · свіжий · квітковий
Ноти серцяПіраміда
4/5Сила
400годСтійкість
3Походження
Зразок
Листя фіалки як парфумерна сировина
Ноти серця
Viola odorata
Визначення

Violet leaf is a natural perfumery material, the absolute made from the leaves of Viola odorata. Its odour is green, with melon, earthy and waxy aspects.

ЗЕЛЕНИЙ СВІЖИЙ ЗЕМЛИСТИЙ АКВАТИЧНИЙ ВОСКОВИЙ
violet leaf absolute, Viola odorata leaf absolute, oil of Viola odorata, sweet violet leaf oil
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Ароматичні
Source
Natural
Chemical class
complex natural (absolute)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
4/5Сила
Висока
інтенсивність запаху
Стійкість на блотері
400годин · 17 днів
1 год6 год24 год3 дн.7 дн.400 год
за 100 %
Країни-виробники
Єгипет Франція Китай

Запах

The odour is green, melon-like, earthy, waxy and fresh, with vegetative and floral nuances. At 10% in triacetin the odour is green, oily, earthy, leafy and floral. It is also described as green, vegetal, floral, waxy and slightly earthy, with a cucumber and melon effect. The main aldehyde of the absolute, (2E,6Z)-2,6-nonadienal, has an odour described as green, fatty, dry, cucumber, violet leaf and melon. This contrasts with the powdery, floral scent of violet flowers. The aroma is cool, powerful and wet, of crushed green leaves, with soft woody nuances. During the long dry down it becomes muted, earthy and grassy. Egyptian material is more intense with a distinct leathery undertone, while French-origin leaves tend to have a cleaner, grassier aroma. The absolute has a very powerful and characteristic odour.

Теруар і переробка

Докладно

The plant

Viola odorata is a small, hardy herbaceous perennial of the family Violaceae, native to Eurasia. Its leaves are kidney-shaped and reach 6 cm in length. The leaves and flowers are edible and have been used to make fragrances.

The species is native to Europe south of Scandinavia, northwest Africa, Macaronesia, the Caucasus, Western Asia and Kazakhstan. In some Viola species the scent of the flowers is elusive, because a major component of it, the ketone ionone, temporarily desensitizes the receptors of the nose.

Chemistry

The main constituent of the volatile fraction of the absolute is (2E,6Z)-2,6-nonadienal, the violet leaf aldehyde, also known as cucumber aldehyde. The molecule is a doubly unsaturated derivative of nonanal. Isotopic labeling has indicated that it is formed from α-linolenic acid. The molecule is an α,β-unsaturated aldehyde with an isolated alkene group. The same compound is also found in bread crust and in freshly cut watermelon.

Production and origin

The absolute is produced in small quantities, for example in Egypt.

Absolutes in general are concentrated, oily mixtures with a higher concentration of aromatic substances and a lower volatility than essential oils.

Tourrettes-sur-Loup

Tourrettes-sur-Loup is a commune in the Alpes-Maritimes department of southeastern France, between Vence and Grasse. It holds an annual violet festival in March. A museum dedicated to the violet flower opened in the village on 6 March 2010.

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Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Violet leaf absolute is obtained by solvent extraction, via the concrete, from the leaves of Viola odorata. The solvent is petroleum ether, applied to the freshly harvested leaves. Further alcohol washing, chilling and filtration of the alcohol extracts, followed by evaporation in a vacuum, gives the absolute.

Формула
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: (2E,6Z)-2,6-nonadienal C₉H₁₄O)
CAS
8024-08-6
Ботанічна назва
Viola odorata
Зовнішній вигляд
dark green amber viscous liquid to semi-solid
Сила запаху
Висока
Стійкість
400 hours at 100.00%
Синоніми
violet leaf absolute, Viola odorata leaf absolute, oil of Viola odorata, sweet violet leaf oil
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура спалаху
> 200.00 °F. TCC ( > 93.33 °C. )
Відносна густина
0.94700 to 0.95000 @ 25.00 °C.
Показник заломлення
1.48000 to 1.50000 @ 20.00 °C.

У парфумерії

Violet leaf absolute is used frequently in perfume compositions, but only in very low concentration because of its intense odour. The recommended usage level is up to 2% in the fragrance concentrate. In natural perfumery it is used in herbaceous bouquets, floral bases, chypres and new mown hay. It blends very well with tuberose, narcissus, tea leaf absolute, clary sage absolute, estragon, cumin, basil and with synthetic ingredients. In cosmetic applications it brings a delicate caring effect. In flavour, it is useful in creating green fruits such as melon and kiwi, cucumber, and yellow fruits such as peach and nectarine.

Роль у формулі
01модифікатор
02фірмова нота
03компонент піднесення
04сполучний компонент
05формувач об’єму
06свіжість
Форми випуску
конкрет абсолют

Див. також

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