Rosa rubiginosa

PrirodnaCVETOVIvoćni · cvetni · sladak
Srednje notePiramida
3/5Jačina
—Trajnost
2Poreklo
Uzorak
Rosa rubiginosa kao sirovina za parfeme
Srednje note
Rosa rubiginosa
Definicija

Green apple peel crushed between fingers, with a faint rose underneath. Rosa rubiginosa's foliage, not its flowers, carries the scent -- a sharp, fruity-green surprise in the rose family.

CVETNI ZELEN SLADAK VOĆNI SVEŽ
SWEET BRIAR ROSE EGLANTINE
Type
Sirovina
Olfactive family
Cvetni
Source
flowers
Chemical class
complex natural (essential oil)
Instrumenti
Piramida
GGornje note
SSrednje note
BBazne note
3/5Jačina
Srednja
jačina mirisa
Zemlje proizvođači
Čile Evropa

Miris

Green apple skin, leaf aldehyde sharpness, and a quiet rose underneath. More fruit than flower. The apple quality is tart, not sweet -- closer to a Granny Smith than a Fuji. Compared to Rosa damascena, sweet briar reads vastly greener and less honeyed. The effect is a walk through a wild hedgerow after rain.

Teroar i poreklo

Detaljno

Rosa rubiginosa (sweet briar, eglantine) is unusual among roses: the primary fragrance comes from its leaves, not its flowers. The foliage, especially when brushed or dampened by rain, releases a pronounced green-apple scent from glandular trichomes on the leaf undersides. The flowers themselves are modest five-petalled pink blooms with a mild, generic rose sweetness.

The apple-green character of the leaves comes from trans-2-hexenal (leaf aldehyde) and nonanal, combined with the standard rose alcohols (citronellol, geraniol) at lower concentrations than in Rosa damascena. The hips (fruits) are rich in essential fatty acids and are commercially important for rosehip seed oil in skincare, though this oil is almost odourless.

In perfumery, Rosa rubiginosa is rarely used as an extract. The note is reconstructed to capture the leaf-apple-rose interaction: a green modifier with a fruity twist that no other rose material provides. It functions in the heart zone of green-floral and naturalistic compositions.

—

Related: 2 Phenoxyethanol · Alba Rose · Benzophenone · Beta Damascenone · China Rose · Citronellyl Formate · Desert Rose · Dried Rose

Zanimljivosti

Shakespeare's eglantine in A Midsummer Night's Dream refers to Rosa rubiginosa. The Elizabethans prized it not for its flowers but for its apple-scented leaves, which they planted beneath windows so rain would release the fragrance indoors.

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

No standardised essential oil or absolute of Rosa rubiginosa foliage is commercially produced for perfumery. Rosehip seed oil (from the fruits) is pressed for skincare but carries almost no scent. The leaf-apple impression is reconstructed synthetically.

Formula
N/A — complex seed/flower oil (key: linoleic acid, linolenic acid)
CAS
223748-18-3
Botanički naziv
Rosa rubiginosa
Izgled
Colorless to pale yellow liquid
Jačina mirisa
Srednji
Sinonimi
SWEET BRIAR ROSE EGLANTINE
Status prema standardima IFRA
Pogledajte napomenu

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Fizička svojstva
Relativna gustina
0.92000 to 0.93000 @ 25.00 °C. (est)
Indeks prelamanja
1.47500 to 1.48500 @ 20.00 °C. (est)

U parfemima

Rosa rubiginosa (sweet briar) provides a unique green-apple-rose quality available from no other rose species. The scent comes from the leaves, not the flowers. The note functions as a green modifier in the heart zone, contributing a fruity-green freshness to naturalistic, hedgerow, and English-garden compositions. Key aroma molecules: trans-2-hexenal, nonanal, citronellol. The note works alongside violet leaf, galbanum, and green tea accords.

Uloga u formuli
01fiksativ
02pojačivač difuzije
03nota potpisa
04svežina
Oblici na tržištu
eterično ulje apsolut konkret CO2 ekstrakt

Pogledajte i

8 nota