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What Is Oakmoss? | Premiere Peau

WOODS AND MOSSES  /  earthy · woody · floral
Oakmoss
Oakmoss perfume ingredient
CategoryWOODS AND MOSSES
Subcategoryearthy · woody · floral
Origin
VolatilityBase Note
BotanicalEvernia prunastri
Appearancedark green brown semi-solid (est)
Odor StrengthMedium
Producing CountriesCroatia, France, Morocco, Slovenia
PyramidBase

A fragrant lichen used in perfumery for its earthy and woody aroma.

  1. Scent
  2. Terroir & Origins
  3. The Full Story
  4. Fun Fact
  5. Extraction & Chemistry
  6. In Perfumery
  7. See Also

Scent

Oakmoss presents a complex aroma that is both earthy and slightly sweet, like damp wood and leaf litter. Its scent profile smells rich and green, with hints of bark and mossy undergrowth. The complexity of oakmoss can also include subtle notes ofleatherandtobacco, giving it an alluring depth that enhances its overall character.

Scent Evolution

When compared to other ingredients, oakmoss can be likened to a soft, musky whisper in a fragrance. Its robust yet gentle presence can transform a perfume. This quality makes oakmoss a favorite among perfumers aiming to create sophisticated and balanced fragrances.

Evolution over time

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After a few hours

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Terroir & Maturity

Indicative 2025 wholesale prices.

The Full Story

Oakmoss has a rich history In perfumery, known for complex scent and grounding qualities. Traditionally harvested from thebarkofoaktrees, thislichenthrives in the humid forests of Europe, particularly in regions like France, Croatia, and Slovenia. Its usedatesback centuries, and it goes with the classic chypre fragrance family, which combines citrus, floral, andearthy notesto create sophisticated compositions. Oakmoss adds depth and character to perfumes and evokes a sense of nature and tranquility.

Origin and Production

Sourcing oakmoss requires sustainable practices, as overharvesting can threaten its natural habitats. The lichen is typically collected by hand, so that the ecosystem remains intact. Once harvested, oakmoss is processed to extract its aromatic compounds, which are then used in various fragrance formulations. Its significance in perfumery cannot be overstated, as it is both a fixative and a base note, helping to prolong the scent and enhance other ingredients in a composition.

Chemistry and Scent Profile

In contemporary perfumery, oakmoss is appreciated not only for its historicalrootsbut also for its versatility. It can be found in a wide range of fragrances, from fresh and light to deep and complex. Perfume houses often use oakmoss to create a balance between floral andwoody notes, adding to the overall harmony of the fragrance. Its earthy undertones evoke the sensation of walking through a damp forest.

Chemical Properties

Oakmoss (CAS: 68917-10-2). Flash Point: > 200.00 °F. TCC ( > 93.33 °C. ). Specific Gravity: 0.97100 to 0.98300 @ 25.00 °C. Refractive Index: 1.47600 to 1.48700 @ 20.00 °C.

Did You Know?

Oakmoss was once a key ingredient in many classic perfumes, but its use has been restricted due to environmental concerns, leading to a resurgence of interest in sustainable sourcing.

Did You Know?

Did you know?
Oakmoss was once a key ingredient in many classic perfumes, but its use has been restricted due to environmental concerns, leading to a resurgence of interest in sustainable sourcing.

Extraction & Chemistry

Extraction method: Solvent extraction to obtain the absolute; supercritical CO₂ extraction for atranol-free qualities

↑ See Terroir & Origins for origin-specific methods.

CAS Number68917-10-2
Botanical NameEvernia prunastri
IFRA StatusHeavily restricted. Oakmoss absolute is IFRA-limited due to atranol and chloroatranol content (potent skin sensitizers). Only atranol-free qualities are permitted in modern formulations.
Synonymsoak moss, Evernia prunastri
Physical Properties
Odor StrengthMedium
Lasting Power400 hours at 20.00%
Appearancedark green brown semi-solid (est)
Flash Point> 200.00 °F. TCC ( > 93.33 °C. )
Specific Gravity0.97100 to 0.98300 @ 25.00 °C.
Refractive Index1.47600 to 1.48700 @ 20.00 °C.

In Perfumery

In perfumery, oakmoss is a base note, giving longevity and depth to fragrances. It can anchor lighter notes allows perfumers to create complex layers within their compositions. Oakmoss pairs beautifully with citrus, floral, and other woody notes, improving olfactory experience. Its fixative properties help to stabilize volatile ingredients, so that the fragrance lasts longer on the skin.

See Also

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