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НатуральнийКВІТИквітковий · солодкий · теплий
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Ноти серця
Acacia farnesiana (L.) Willd.
Визначення

Cassie absolute is extracted from the blossoms of Acacia farnesiana, also known as sweet acacia. Its aroma is honey-floral, warm and powdery.

ПУДРОВИЙ АНІСОВИЙ СОЛОДКИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ ФІАЛКОВИЙ ТВАРИННИЙ БАЛЬЗАМІЧНИЙ ПРЯНИЙ
Cassie, cassie absolute, sweet acacia, huisache, Vachellia farnesiana
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Квіткові
Source
flower absolute
Chemical class
natural (absolute)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
Стійкість на блотері
Tenacious
Країни-виробники
Єгипет (основне джерело) Індія Франція (Грас, історично)

Запах

The aroma is rich, sweet, warm and green, with a honey-floral character and pronounced powdery and soft cinnamic-balsamic undertones. The drydown has a subtle spicy, violet-like note.

The top note is herbaceous-flowery, the body extremely warm, powdery-spicy and at the same time floral, and the dry-out deep, very tenacious and cinnamic-balsamic. The odour is also described as floral-mimosa, honey, spicy, green, violet leaf and woody, and the profile as tenacious, herbaceous, warm and floral.

Cassie absolute from pomade has a fresher top note and a much lighter body note, but lacks the tenacity of the absolute from concrete.

Докладно

Vachellia farnesiana, also known as Acacia farnesiana and previously as Mimosa farnesiana, is a species of shrub or small tree in the legume family, Fabaceae. Its flowers are used in the perfume industry.

The tree

Growing from multiple trunks, the tree reaches a height of 4.6-9.1 metres (15-30 feet). The base of each leaf is accompanied by a pair of thorns on the branch. The bark is whitish gray, and the dark brown fruit is a seed pod. The name huisache of Mexico and Texas is derived from Nahuatl and means "many thorns". In Australia the plant is called needle bush because of the many thorns along its branches. Acacia farnesiana originated in the northern part of tropical America. It is the most widely distributed Acacia species, introduced to all tropical and subtropical regions of the world for its fragrant flowers. In Malesia it was first introduced to the Philippines from Mexico by the Spaniards, and it is now recorded throughout South-East Asia. Flowering starts about 3 years after planting, and plants reach full production at 5-6 years of age. In Malesia the tree flowers throughout the year, and in Central America from November to April. It coppices well and fixes atmospheric nitrogen.

Composition

The main volatile components of the absolute from concrete are methyl salicylate, anisaldehyde, geraniol (and derivatives) and benzaldehyde. The characteristic fragrance of cassie absolute is attributed to 3 minor components: 3-methyldec-3-en-1-ol, 3-methyldec-4-en-1-ol and 3-methyldec-4-enoic acid.

Sourcing and production

Industrial production of cassie flower for perfume started near Cannes in south-eastern France and is still concentrated in that area, with smaller numbers of trees along the neighbouring Italian coast and in Northern Africa. In France the trees flower in September and October. Flowers are picked 1-3 times per week depending on the location and the temperature and only when they are dry. Trestles are used for picking because the branches are brittle and easily damaged. Young trees yield 0.5-1 kg of flowers a year, and well-managed, large, selected trees may yield 6-10 kg per year. Yields of up to 1500 kg of flowers per hectare have been reported. Annual production of cassie absolute from concrete is in the order of 100 kg only. In 1998 the world market price of the absolute was several thousand US$ per kg. Cassie absolute from pomade is a dark green or olive green, very viscous liquid. Cassie pomade, known as attar of cassie, is produced in India for the local market only. Because production costs in France are high, cultivation for the perfume industry in other countries, including South-East Asia, has been proposed for investigation.

Varieties and other products of the tree

Two varieties are distinguished on leaf and pod characters: var. farnesiana and var. guanacastensis, the latter found from Mexico to Costa Rica. Several cultivars have been developed in France. Cavenia, grown in southern France, tolerates drought and frost well, but its oil is of secondary quality. Semperflorens is vigorous and tall, needs more care, nutrients and irrigation, and gives two harvests of flowers per year. The wood is brownish-yellow, heavy, hard, close-grained and durable, with a distinctive, somewhat unpleasant smell. The bark has a high tannin content of 30-40%, and the tree exudes a gum that is sometimes collected. Flowering branches are sold as cut flowers and are known in commerce as cassie flowers.

Цікавий факт

Farnesol was named around 1900-1905 after the Farnese acacia tree, Vachellia farnesiana, because the flowers of the tree were the commercial source of the floral essence in which the chemical was identified. In Fiji, where the plant is considered a serious weed, locals call it Ellington's curse.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Cassie flowers are now mostly extracted with a volatile solvent to yield cassie concrete, a solid waxy, dark yellow or brown mass. The concrete is later mixed with alcohol and distilled to produce cassie absolute. On alcoholic extraction the concrete yields 30-35% cassie absolute, and 1 kg of flowers yields 1-4 g of absolute. Enfleurage involves leaving the flowers in contact with oil or fat for several hours and replacing them with fresh ones until the oil or fat is saturated with the volatile compounds. It yields cassie pomade and is now only very rarely used. Cassie pomade can also be prepared by macerating the flowers in fatty oil or heated fat, and on alcoholic extraction it yields cassie absolute from pomade. Direct distillation of the flowers yields inferior products.

Формула
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: methyl salicylate C₈H₈O₃; anisaldehyde; geraniol; benzaldehyde)
CAS
8023-82-3
Ботанічна назва
Acacia farnesiana (L.) Willd.
Зовнішній вигляд
Dark yellow to pale brown viscous liquid (absolute from concrete), clear at about 20°C, forming waxy flakes when colder
Стійкість
Tenacious
Синоніми
Cassie, cassie absolute, sweet acacia, huisache, Vachellia farnesiana
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура спалаху
100 °C / 212 °F

У парфумерії

The absolute is used in luxury perfumes, to which it lends a unique warmth and a woody-floral note. It combines well with a wide range of aroma materials. At low dosage it gives a delicate, velvety floral fragrance with notes of mimosa and white flowers and a powdery undertone. Cassie absolute from pomade is an extremely scarce perfume material that differs in character from the absolute from concrete and is not a substitute for it. Cassie absolute from concrete is occasionally used in flavours. In very low concentration it gives raspberry flavours a delightful naturalness and body. In raspberry flavours it is used at a concentration only slightly above the minimum perceptible level, 0.04-0.08 mg per 100 g. The Food and Drugs Administration of the United States classified the absolute as 'generally recognized as safe' (GRAS No 2260).

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02модифікатор
03сполучний компонент
04формувач об’єму
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