Мімоза
Golden, powdery, faintly green. Mimosa smells like almond-dusted face powder left open in a sunlit greenhouse — a dry, polleny sweetness softened by a watery cucumber freshness that no other flower material quite replicates.
- Type
- Складник
- Olfactive family
- Квіткові
- Source
- flower (flowering branches)
- Chemical class
- Complex natural (absolute). Dominated by long-chain hydrocarbons and triterpenoids, with olfactively important trace compounds (anisaldehyde, beta-ionone, methyl salicylate, nonadienal).
Запах
Теруар і походження
Докладно
Цікавий факт
Acacia dealbata is not a mimosa at all. The botanical genus Mimosa (the 'sensitive plants' whose leaves fold when touched) belongs to the same family (Fabaceae) but a different sub-group. The name stuck in Europe because eighteenth-century botanists initially classified the Australian acacias under Mimosa before reclassifying them. This means every 'mimosa festival' on the Côte d'Azur — and every 'mimosa' perfume — is technically celebrating an acacia.
Отримання й хімія
Спосіб отримання
Solvent extraction (hexane) of Acacia dealbata flowering branches — flowers and twig-ends are extracted together, which is unusual for floral absolutes. Concrete yield: approximately 0.5% (roughly 150-200 kg of plant material per 1 kg of concrete). Absolute conversion from concrete via alcohol washing: 20-25%. Annual global production: 200-1,500 kg concrete, 100-300 kg absolute, depending on harvest. Principal production: Grasse region and Tanneron massif (France), with Morocco as the primary volume source. Harvest season: January to March. Payan Bertrand, a Grasse house operating since 1854, processes over 5 tonnes of mimosa annually. The Indication Géographique Absolue Pays de Grasse certification (INPI, November 2020) now covers mimosa alongside rose de mai and jasmine.
- Формула
- C₈H₈O₂ (Anisaldehyde, sweet) · C₉H₆O₂ (Coumarin, hay-sweet)
- CAS
- 8031-03-6 (mimosa absolute)
- Ботанічна назва
- Acacia dealbata Link
- Зовнішній вигляд
- Yellow to amber-brown, semi-solid wax (solidifies at room temperature; requires warming or pre-dissolution for use)
- Сила запаху
- Середня
- Стійкість
- High tenacity (semi-solid waxy absolute; exact hour count varies by source and dilution)
- Синоніми
- ACACIA MIMOSE SILVER WATTLE YELLOW MIMOSA MIMOSA ABSOLUTE
Permitted. Contains coumarin, a restricted allergen under IFRA (max 1.6% in fine fragrance, Category 4) and EU Cosmetic Regulation (mandatory labelling above 0.001% in leave-on products). Batch-level monitoring required.
- Температура спалаху
- > 200.00 °F. TCC ( > 93.33 °C. )
- Відносна густина
- 0.98900 to 1.22000 @ 25.00 °C.
- Показник заломлення
- 1.49000 to 1.55000 @ 20.00 °C.
У парфумерії
Mimosa functions as a heart note with a soft, enveloping character that sits between powdery-floral and green-floral. Its anisaldehyde content connects it structurally to heliotrope and almond notes; its beta-ionone links it to violet and iris; its nonadienal bridges it toward green-aquatic qualities. This molecular versatility makes it useful far beyond soliflore mimosa compositions. In practice, mimosa absolute rounds out rose accords (softening their sharpness), adds a golden warmth to iris-based compositions, and provides a powdery foundation in spring-floral bouquets. It pairs functionally with violet, iris, sandalwood, ylang-ylang, and tonka. In the Grasse tradition, the brief January-March harvest window gives it a seasonal rarity that few other flower absolutes share. The waxy, semi-solid consistency of the absolute (it solidifies at room temperature) makes it technically demanding to work with — most formulations use it pre-dissolved or in dilution.
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