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НатуральнийКВІТИквітковий · зелений · теплий
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Календула як парфумерна сировина
Ноти серця
Calendula officinalis
Визначення

Calendula officinalis, the pot marigold, is a flowering plant in the daisy family, Asteraceae. Its flower absolute has a warm, herbal and slightly resinous aroma with floral nuances.

КВІТКОВИЙ ТРАВ’ЯНИЙ ЗЕМЛИСТИЙ ПРЯНИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ СМОЛИСТИЙ
pot marigold, Mary's gold, common marigold, Scotch marigold, ruddles
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Квіткові
Source
flowers
Chemical class
triterpenoid esters, carotenoids, flavonol glycosides, saponins
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
Країни-виробники
Іспанія Франція

Запах

A chemical database gives its odour type as herbal, with a marigold odour. Another description gives it as soft, herbaceous, floral, earthy and slightly spicy. The first smell has strong herbaceous notes, and a more floral and delicate scent appears slowly. There is a hint of earthiness in the floral bouquet. Most cultivars of the plant have a spicy aroma.

Докладно

About the plant

Calendula officinalis, the pot marigold, is a short-lived aromatic herbaceous perennial that grows to 80 cm tall. Its inflorescences are yellow or orange. It is probably native to southern Europe, but its long history of cultivation makes its precise origin unknown.

The flower absolute

The INCI name of the flower absolute is Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract. The scent of the absolute differs from that of calendula-infused oil, which is more subtle and harmonious.

Chemistry

The petals and pollen contain triterpenoid esters, as well as the carotenoids flavoxanthin and auroxanthin, which are antioxidants and the source of the yellow-orange coloration. The flowers also contain flavonol glycosides, triterpene oligoglycosides, oleanane-type triterpene glycosides, saponins and a sesquiterpene glucoside. The flowers are a rich source of lutein, containing 29.8 mg/100g.

Uses

The florets are edible. They are often included in salads for their color or added to dishes as a garnish in lieu of saffron. A dye extracted from the flower gives shades of honey, gold, orange, light brown and vibrant yellow. Calendula officinalis oil is still used medicinally as an anti-inflammatory and a remedy for healing wounds. Evidence for the effectiveness of calendula ointments on minor cuts, burns and skin irritation is weak. Laboratory studies on plant extracts suggest that calendula extracts may have antiviral, antigenotoxic and anti-inflammatory effects in vitro.

History

Flowers were used in ancient Greek, Roman, Middle Eastern and Indian cultures as a medicinal herb and as a dye for fabrics, foods and cosmetics. Ancient Romans and Greeks used the golden Calendula in many rituals and ceremonies, sometimes wearing crowns or garlands made from the flowers. Calendula flowers are sacred flowers in India and have been used to decorate the statues of Hindu deities since early times. In the middle ages, Calendula flowers were used for liver obstructions, snake bites and to strengthen the heart. Marigold did not appear in pharmacopoietic literature before the late 13th or early 14th century. The names marigold and Mary's gold were given by the English people to honour Mary, mother of Jesus.

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Related: Abelia · Almond Blossom · Alpha Terpineol · Alstroemeria · Alumroot · Amarillys · Amazon Moonflower · Amethyst Flower

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

The absolute is made by solvent extraction. It is obtained from the flowers of Calendula officinalis. One supplier names the petals as the part used.

Формула
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: lutein; saponins; flavonol glycosides)
CAS
84776-23-8
Ботанічна назва
Calendula officinalis
Зовнішній вигляд
yellow to orange
Синоніми
pot marigold, Mary's gold, common marigold, Scotch marigold, ruddles
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

У парфумерії

Perfuming and skin conditioning are among the cosmetic functions of the extract.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02модифікатор
Форми випуску
абсолют настояна олія

Див. також

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