Clearwood

СинтетичнийДЕРЕВИНА Й МОХИдеревний · амбровий · мускусний
Ноти серця·Базові нотиПіраміда
3½/5Сила
7годСтійкість
—Походження
Зразок
Clearwood як парфумерна сировина
Ноти серця й базові ноти
Saccharum officinarum
Визначення

Clearwood is a perfumery ingredient created in 2014 through biotechnology and produced from sugarcane. It smells woody and amber, with a clean patchouli-like character.

ДЕРЕВНИЙ ЗЕЛЕНИЙ СОЛОДКИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ ПРОХОЛОДНИЙ СВІЖИЙ
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Деревні
Source
Sustainably sourced sugarcane
Chemical class
Contains patchoulol, a sesquiterpene alcohol
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
3½/5Сила
Вище середньої
інтенсивність запаху
Стійкість на блотері
7годин
1 год6 год24 год3 дн.7 дн.400 год

Запах

Clearwood offers the creamy warmth of amber and a dark woody character reminiscent of patchouli. It delivers a clean patchouli-like scent. Its odour profile is woody, amber and musky, with a soft patchouli nuance, clean, transparent and long-lasting. Clearwood Prisma, a concentrated version, has an even more intense woody-patchouli character with enhanced oakmoss and ambery facets.

Докладно

Composition

Clearwood contains at least 90% of patchoulol. Patchoulol, also called patchouli alcohol, is a sesquiterpene alcohol found in patchouli (Pogostemon cablin). Patchoulol is the main chemical component of patchouli oil. The (-)- optical isomer of patchoulol is one of the compounds responsible for the typical patchouli scent.

Origin and production

In collaboration with Amyris, a fragrance house pioneered industrial biotechnology for the fragrance industry with the launch of Clearwood. The industrial biotech approach behind Clearwood tends to consume less resource than traditional processes and often uses renewable carbon sources. Industrial biotechnology applications in the fragrance industry allow a sustainable production based on renewable feedstocks, instead of limited or threatened botanical resources.

Patchouli and patchoulol

Patchouli is native to Southeast Asia and is now grown widely in tropical climates. Gal first isolated patchoulol in 1869, and Montgolfier later established its formula as C₁₅H₂₆O. Early work showed it to be a saturated tricyclic tertiary alcohol.

History

Work on biotechnology at a fragrance house began as early as 2001, with the discovery of sesquiterpene synthases. In 2006 the isolation of a key gene involved in the synthesis of the fragrance alcohol from the patchouli plant was reported for the first time.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

—

Related: Alder · Alpha Humulene · Amaranth · Amberever · Amburana Bark · Antillone · Apple Tree

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Clearwood is produced from sustainably sourced sugarcane. The process uses sustainable sugar fermentation, bio-conversion techniques and advanced distillation to create ingredients from renewable carbon. Production relies on a microbial production system.

Формула
Complex mixture (key constituents: patchoulol C₁₅H₂₆O)
Ботанічна назва
Saccharum officinarum
Зовнішній вигляд
Pale yellow to yellow liquid
Сила запаху
Medium to high
Стійкість
Up to 7 days on strip
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура спалаху
>100 °C

У парфумерії

Clearwood is used as a woody base material that complements natural patchouli, for florals, ambers and musks. It is more delicate and feminine and blends particularly well with floral bouquets. It is compatible with many fragrance families, from florals to orientals and fougères, and is useful in floral woody musks, in clean patchouli effects for modern chypres, and in transparent woody ambers. Its low coloration and good solubility also suit functional fragrances and personal care. Typical use levels are 1-5% in fine fragrance, 0.3-1% in hair and body care, and 0.5-3% in functional products.

Роль у формулі
01модифікатор
02кістяк
03фірмова нота
04сполучний компонент
05формувач об’єму
Форми випуску
рідина

Див. також

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