Ефірна олія кореня костусу

НатуральнийКОРЕНІ Й МОХИтваринний · деревний
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Зразок
Ефірна олія кореня костусу як парфумерна сировина
Базові ноти
Dolomiaea costus (syn. Saussurea costus, Aucklandia costus, Saussurea lappa)
Визначення

Costus root oil is an essential oil obtained by steam distillation from the dried roots of Dolomiaea costus, a thistle formerly named Saussurea costus. Its odour is orris, green, hairy and woody, with an animal character.

ДЕРЕВНИЙ ТВАРИННИЙ ЗЕЛЕНИЙ
Costus oil
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Тваринні
Source
plant root
Chemical class
complex natural (essential oil)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
Країни-виробники
Індія

Запах

The oil has a characteristic persistent odour reminiscent of orris, violet and vetiver. Smelled at full strength, it is described as orris, green, hairy and woody, with a note of unripe melons. The odour type is classed as animal.

Докладно

Dolomiaea costus is a perennial thistle of the family Asteraceae. It was formerly known as Saussurea costus. The plant is native to South Asia and China. It is commonly known as costus, Indian costus, kuth or putchuk. Its synonyms include Aucklandia costus and Saussurea lappa.

It is usually found at elevations of 2,500 to 3,000 m in India, including the Himalayas and Kashmir. The plant is cultivated as a medicinal plant, mainly in India, in Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir. Most of the roots are exported to China and Japan.

The main component of one steam-distilled root oil was costunolide, also named eudesma-5,11(13)-dien-8,12-olide, at 52.01 %. Elemene, phenanthrenone and caryophyllene oxide are also among the major components of that oil. Myrcene, p-cymene, β-ionone, sesquiterpenes, costolactone and a small amount of palmitic acid are among the main constituents given in another description. Differences between studies in the composition of the oil may be due to time of harvesting, local, climatic and seasonal issues, and the storage time of the roots. The oil is soluble in most fixed oils and in mineral oil, and insoluble in glycerin and propylene glycol.

Essential oils extracted from the root have been used in traditional medicine and in perfumes since ancient times. Pliny described the spice as having a burning taste and a very fine scent, but as otherwise useless. The plant has been greatly over-collected and has been placed on Appendix I of CITES. Costus is one of the most threatened medicinal plants of Kashmir Himalaya. In Jammu and Kashmir, the Kuth Act of 1978 regulates trade in the plant.

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Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

The oil is obtained by steam distillation after maceration in water of the comminuted dried roots. Since the oil contains water-soluble components and has a specific gravity similar to that of water, it is then recovered from the distillation waters by extraction with solvents. The yield is approximately 0.7%. In another study, 400 g of coarsely powdered roots were steam-distilled with a Clevenger system for 3 h, and the essential oil yield was 3 %. Two earlier studies reported that hydro-distillation of the roots yielded oil at 0.23% and 0.89% (v/w).

Формула
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: costunolide C₁₅H₂₀O₂)
CAS
8023-88-9
Ботанічна назва
Dolomiaea costus (syn. Saussurea costus, Aucklandia costus, Saussurea lappa)
Зовнішній вигляд
viscous, pale-yellow to yellowish-brown liquid
Синоніми
Costus oil
Статус IFRA
Заборонено (деякі форми)

Prohibited — IFRA Standard « Costus root oil, absolute and concrete » (Amendment 40)

Фізичні властивості
Температура спалаху
120 °F
Показник заломлення
1.5180 (n20/D)

У парфумерії

In cosmetics, costus oil serves as a perfuming ingredient.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02фірмова нота
03модифікатор
Форми випуску
ефірна олія

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