Ірисове масло

What it is

Oil of orris is sometimes sold as orris butter. The steam distillate resembles a concrete and is also sold under the name orris concrete. At room temperature, the concrete from Iris pallida is a light yellow-brown solid mass. It melts to a yellow or yellow-brown liquid at 40 to 50 °C and dissolves in most fixed oils, mineral oil and propylene glycol, but not in glycerin. The concrete's waxy consistency comes from its high content of myristic and other fatty acids.

Origin and cultivation

Of the many iris species, only Iris pallida and Iris germanica are highly valued in the perfume industry. Iris germanica is a natural hybrid involving a cross between Iris pallida and Iris variegata. Iris pallida is native to the Dalmatian coast in Croatia. Iris pallida is also cultivated in the Chianti region of Italy, and Iris germanica in Morocco. While Italy was once the main producer of orris, Morocco and China have become major sources in recent decades.

Aging and chemistry

Fresh orris roots do not contain any irones. Irones are formed by an oxidative degradation of higher molecular precursors, only when the dried orris roots are stored for a longer period. During aging, fats and oils in the roots degrade and oxidise, producing many fragrant compounds whose scent is similar to violets. Irones are a group of methylionone odorants used in perfumery. The irones cis-γ-irone and cis-α-irone are responsible for the typical odour of orris oil. The higher the irone content, the more powerful the powdery note. Iris pallida oil contains the dextrorotatory enantiomers, while Iris germanica oil contains the levorotatory enantiomers. Orris root oil has an acid content of 71-95%, calculated as myristic acid, and a ketone content, calculated as irone, of 9-20%. The contents of α-irone and γ-irone are accepted as the most significant criteria of the commercial quality of iris essential oil. Grades of orris butter are sold at stated irone contents, such as 8% and 15%. Other components of orris root include fat, resin, starch, mucilage, bitter extractive, and a glucoside called iridin or irisin.

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