Vertofix Coeur

СинтетичнийДЕРЕВИНА Й МОХИдеревний · амбровий · кедр
Базові нотиПіраміда
3/5Сила
—Стійкість
—Походження
Зразок
V
Базові ноти
Визначення

Vertofix Coeur is a synonym of acetyl cedrene, a dry woody-amber aroma molecule. Its odour is dry woody-amber with a clear cedarwood-like direction.

ДЕРЕВНИЙ АМБРОВИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ
Acetyl cedrene, Acetylcedrene
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Деревні
Chemical class
Ketone
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
3/5Сила
Середня
інтенсивність запаху
Стійкість на блотері
High

Запах

The material smells of a polished woody base with a dry cedarwood impression and a warm musky-amber undertone. Its secondary nuances are musky, warm, slightly ambered, waxy and softly resinous. The texture is dry, smooth and dense, and persistent rather than airy or sparkling.

The scent is calm, masculine, stable and persistent. Its diffusion is moderate, with more value in body, depth and drydown persistence. It is drier and more cedar-like than Iso E Super and less creamy than sandalwood materials.

Докладно

Acetyl cedrene is a liquid ketone used as a raw perfumery material, a single aroma molecule rather than a finished perfume. It is soluble in alcohol and insoluble in water. Its INCI name is Acetyl Cedrene and its EC number is 251-020-3.

Its IUPAC name is 1-[(1R,2R,5S,7R)-2,6,6,8-tetramethyl-9-tricyclo[5.3.1.01,5]undec-8-enyl]ethanone. Iso E Super is a different material, with the formula C₁₆H₂₆O, a molar mass of 234.38 g/mol and other CAS numbers, among them 54464-57-2.

Acetyl cedrene is entry 327 in Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. Its presence must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products or 0.01 % in rinse-off products.

Chemistry and identification

PubChem lists it as compound 16220111 under the title acetylcedrene. The name used for it in Annex III is [3R-(3α,3aβ,7β,8aα)]-1-(2,3,4,7,8,8a-hexahydro-3,6,8,8-tetramethyl-1H-3a,7-methanoazulen-5-yl)ethan-1-one. The IFRA consultation on the 52nd Amendment gives a second CAS number for it, 68039-35-0, next to 32388-55-9, and spells its INCI name Acetylcedrene.

Comparison with Iso E Super

Iso E Super (OTNE) is a synthetic ketone fragrance with a woody odour, produced commercially by a Diels–Alder reaction. The commercial product comprises more than twenty isomeric ketones. The dominant beta isomer makes up most of the mixture yet is nearly odourless, and the characteristic scent comes from a minor constituent, the gamma isomer known as Arborone, which typically represents only a few percent of the mixture.

Cedar oil and cedrene

Cedrene is a sesquiterpene found in the essential oil of cedar. The two isomers present in the oil, α-cedrene and β-cedrene, differ in the position of a double bond, and cedrene is used in perfumes and fragrances to produce a woody scent. Cedrol is another component of cedar oil. All the cedarwood oils of commerce contain cedrol and cedrene in proportions that depend on the species. These compounds contribute to the odour of the oil and are valuable to the chemical industry for conversion to other derivatives with fragrance applications.

Cedar oil is an essential oil derived from various conifers, most of them in the pine or cypress families. The most important commercial oils are distilled from the wood of junipers and cypresses, both of the family Cupressaceae, rather than from true cedars. Texas cedarwood oil is derived primarily from Juniperus ashei and a second species. Ashe juniper is a drought-tolerant evergreen tree native from northeastern Mexico and the south-central United States to southern Missouri, with its largest stands in central Texas. Cedarwood oils each have a characteristic woody odour, which may change somewhat as the oil dries out.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

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Related: Australian Blue Cypress · Cedar · Cedarwood · Cedrene · Cedrol · Cedryl Acetate · Cypress · False Cypress

Цікавий факт

Acetyl cedrene does not smell like freshly cut natural cedarwood. It smells like the refined, long-lasting woody shadow that sits underneath a perfume.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Acetyl cedrene is made from cedarwood oil. Distillation of the oil gives a hydrocarbon fraction, and acetylating that fraction yields a complex mixture of ketones. The hydrocarbon cut used in manufacture has two main components, cedrene and thujopsene. With acid catalysts thujopsene isomerizes into a large number of hydrocarbons, and this isomerization is thought to come before the acetylation step.

Формула
C₁₇H₂₆O
CAS
32388-55-9
Зовнішній вигляд
Liquid
Сила запаху
Середня
Стійкість
High
Синоніми
Acetyl cedrene, Acetylcedrene
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура спалаху
> 100 °C

У парфумерії

Acetyl cedrene is a fixative and a woody-amber builder. Its tenacity is high, which makes it useful as a base ingredient and as fixative support. It belongs to the family of long-lasting woody-amber materials that give structure and persistence to a fragrance. A suggested starting dose for early trials is 0.5–3% of the fragrance concentrate. In trace amounts it adds subtle dryness, woody body and background persistence. At a moderate level it builds a clear cedarwood-amber base and improves drydown structure. At a high level it can become strongly woody, dry and dominant in the base. Too much can make a formula feel too dry, heavy or monotonously woody if lift, freshness or contrast are missing. It works especially well in fougère, woody, leather, amber and aromatic profiles. It balances sweet, floral, fruity or musky formulas by adding a drier base effect. It is also useful in candle and diffuser compositions where a long-lasting woody foundation is needed. It does not add freshness, since it is a base material, and it does not create sweetness. It does not create strong projection by itself, and it does not replace natural cedarwood. Iso E Super pairs with it to add transparent woody diffusion and smooth modern volume.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02сполучний компонент
03формувач об’єму
04тепло
Форми випуску
синтетична речовина

Див. також

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