Pajasmin

PrirodnaCVETOVIcitrusni · cvetni · svež

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Pajasmin kao sirovina za parfeme — Srednje note

Philadelphus coronarius

Definicija

Mock orange is Philadelphus, a genus of about 60 species of shrubs with white flowers. In wild species the flowers smell of orange flowers and jasmine.

CVETNI CITRUSNI SLADAK PUDERAST TOPAO SVEŽ SUV KREMAST

Sweet mock orange, English dogwood, Pipe bush, Syringa

Type: Sirovina
Olfactive family: Cvetni
Source: flowers
Chemical class: complex natural (essential oil)

Instrumenti

Piramida

GGornje note

SSrednje note

BBazne note

Miris

Philadelphus flowers are commonly, but not in all species, sweetly scented. Mock orange is a sweetly scented white blossom. In P. coronarius the blooms are abundant and very fragrant, but less so in the cultivars. The 16th century botanist Gerard considered the fragrance too intense, and it disturbed his sleep.

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Teroar i poreklo

Detaljno

Mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius) is a species of flowering plant in the family Hydrangeaceae, native to the Caucasus and northeastern Turkey. The accepted name is Philadelphus coronarius L., placed in the order Cornales. It is a deciduous shrub growing to 3 m tall by 2.5 m wide, with toothed leaves and bowl-shaped white flowers with prominent stamens. The genus is named mock-orange for its flowers, which in wild species look somewhat similar to those of oranges and lemons at first glance. Philadelphus is not closely related to Jasminum, and among the eudicots it is quite distant from Citrus. The name syringa, sometimes given to Philadelphus, is entirely misleading, since it properly refers to the lilacs.

Mock-oranges are popular shrubs in parks and gardens, grown for their reliable display of late spring flowers. The sweet mock orange tolerates cold as well as heat and drought.

A GC-MS study compared the volatile compounds of hydrodistillates and hexane extracts from the flowers of Philadelphus coronarius and Jasminum officinale, and identified 109 compounds in all. The dominant components of the essential oil from dried P. coronarius flowers are myrtenal, myrtanal, pentadecanal, tricosane and (Z)-jasmone. The dominant components of the oil from fresh flowers are nerolidol, ethyl palmitate, methyl 2-methylpalmitate and myrtanal. Drying the flowers changes the composition of the oil significantly. In the hydrodistilled oil of Jasminum officinale, the dominant components include linalool and methyl anthranilate.

Philadelphus coronarius flower extract, CAS 94279-93-3, is used in cosmetic recipes.

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Zanimljivosti

Philadelphus is named after Ptolemy II Philadelphus, who ruled the Ptolemaic Kingdom of Egypt from 284 to 246 BC. The specific epithet coronarius means "used for garlands".

Dobijanje i hemija

Način dobijanja

The essential oil is nowadays usually synthesized. Hydrodistillates and hexane extracts of dried and fresh flowers of P. coronarius have been analysed by GC-MS. Hydrodistillation of dried flowers gives an oil with 50.04 % terpenoids, and hydrodistillation of fresh flowers one with 45.13 %. The hexane extract of dried flowers contains only 14.63 % terpenoids, against 52.55 % in the extract of fresh flowers. The extract used in cosmetics is made from the flowers.

Formula: Complex natural mixture (key constituents: (1R)-(-)-myrtenal; myrtanal; pentadecanal; tricosane; (Z)-jasmone)
CAS: 94279-93-3
Botanički naziv: Philadelphus coronarius
Izgled: White, bowl-shaped flowers with four petals and prominent stamens
Sinonimi: Sweet mock orange, English dogwood, Pipe bush, Syringa

Status prema standardima IFRA

Pogledajte napomenu

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

U parfemima

The blossom of mock orange, said to resemble the smell of orange blossoms, has been used in modern perfumery. One suggested present-day use is as potpourri.

Uloga u formuli

01modifikator

02nota potpisa

03sredstvo za podizanje

04sirovina za stapanje

05svežina

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eterično ulje apsolut

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7 nota

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