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Визначення

Cashmeran is a chemical compound used in fragrances for its spicy, musk, woody, and clean aroma. Its name comes from the soft sensuous feeling of cashmere that its odour is intended to convey.

ТЕПЛИЙ ПРЯНИЙ МУСКУСНИЙ ДЕРЕВНИЙ ПУДРОВИЙ
DPMI, musk indanone, indomuscone, dihydropentamethylindanone
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Деревні
Chemical class
Alicyclic ketone
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти

Запах

Its odour is complex, with woody-musky notes and notes that are rich spicy, fruity, chypre, balsamic and vanilla. Its character is soft, warm, slightly powdery and gently woody, with a floral-musky background that can feel like clean skin, warm fabric or cashmere wool. Its texture is soft, fuzzy, powdery and tactile rather than sharp, juicy or transparent. It has a slight peppery undertone.

Докладно

Cashmeran (CAS 33704-61-9), also known as DPMI (6,7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone), is a synthetic material used in fragrances. It is an alicyclic ketone with the molecular formula C₁₄H₂₂O and a molecular weight of 206 g/mol. Its boiling point has been reported as 256 °C, but in some tests the material decomposed at 220 °C. It was discovered in the 1970s by John Hall at a fragrance house. Its invention came about while researching inexpensive chemical transformations of ingredients from the pentamethyl indane and tetramethyl naphthalene structures. As a result, Cashmeran, an unsaturated ketone, was identified as an important new fragrance ingredient.

Cashmeran is a slight skin irritant and an eye irritant, and a weak sensitiser. It is not classified as toxic, nor is it a CMR substance. Its bioconcentration factor is 156 and its octanol-water partition coefficient (log Kow) is 4.2, so it is neither a very persistent, very bioaccumulative substance nor a persistent bioaccumulating toxic substance. Its bioconcentration and aquatic toxicity are an order of magnitude more favourable than those of the substances considered polycyclic musks, but it carries an environmental hazard classification (H411 under the EU CLP). In most monitoring studies DPMI was not detected, and where trace levels were reported they were below 1 ppm and typically below 1 ppb.

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Related: Almond Tree · Ambrox Super · Amburana Wood · Amyris · Blonde Woods · Caoutchouc · Cashalox · Cetonal

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Cashmeran is made by chemical synthesis; it is a synthetic material.

Формула
C₁₄H₂₂O
CAS
33704-61-9
Зовнішній вигляд
White solid at room temperature, melting at 27 °C
Синоніми
DPMI, musk indanone, indomuscone, dihydropentamethylindanone
Статус IFRA
Обмежено

Restricted — IFRA Standard « 6,7-Dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI) » (Amendment 49)

Фізичні властивості
Температура кипіння
256 °C
Температура плавлення
27 °C

У парфумерії

Cashmeran is used to impart its own characteristic odour, which is completely different from regular musk ingredients. Its typical use level is around 2%, whereas the polycyclic musk HHCB (galaxolide) reaches use levels in fragrances of up to 30%. It bridges the gap between clean white musks and dry woods.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02модифікатор
03фірмова нота
04сполучний компонент
05формувач об’єму
Форми випуску
синтетична речовина

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