Цибетин

НатуральнийМУСКУС, АМБРОВИЙ АКОРД, ТВАРИННІ ЗАПАХИтваринний · мускусний · теплий
Базові нотиПіраміда
4/5Сила
—Стійкість
1Походження
Зразок
Цибетин як парфумерна сировина
Базові ноти
Civettictis civetta (Schreber, 1776) (African civet) / Viverra zibetha Linnaeus, 1758 (large Indian civet)
Визначення

Civet is the glandular secretion produced by both sexes of Viverridae species. Its odor is strong, even putrid as a pure substance, but once diluted it is pleasantly and sweetly aromatic.

Musqué
94
Animalique
87
Poudré
71
Doux
70
Chaleureux
61
Fécal
55
Civet musk, civet oil, civet absolute, Zibeth, Zibet, Zibetum
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Амброві й мускусні
Source
Animal glandular secretion (perineal glands of viverrids such as the African civet); civetone can be synthesized from precursors found in palm oil
Chemical class
Animal glandular secretion; main odorant civetone, a macrocyclic ketone
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
4/5Сила
Висока
інтенсивність запаху
Стійкість на блотері
Fragrance lasts a long time
Країни-виробники
Ефіопія

Запах

Pure civet is described as animal, fecal, urine, fatty and waxy. Diluted, it produces a radiant, velvety, floral scent.

Походження, етика й замінники

Докладно

A number of viverrid species secrete civet oil in their perineal glands, including the African civet (Civettictis civetta), large Indian civet (Viverra zibetha), and small Indian civet (Viverricula indica). The African civet is a large viverrid native to sub-Saharan Africa. It is primarily nocturnal and solitary. It is the only living member of the genus Civettictis. Most civet is produced in African farms, where African civets are kept in cages for this purpose. In 2000, civet sold for about five hundred dollars per kilogram.

The chemical in civet oil that gives it most of its distinctive odor is civetone, at a concentration of between 2.5 and 3.4%. Civetone is a macrocyclic ketone, (9Z)-cycloheptadec-9-en-1-one, with the formula C₁₇H₃₀O. Civetone itself has a strong musky odor that becomes pleasant at extreme dilutions. The oil also includes various other ketones such as cyclopentadecanone, cyclohexadecanone, cycloheptadecanone, and 6-cis-cycloheptadecenone. The animal scent is reinforced by the presence of smaller amounts of indole and skatole, which in African civet are present at a concentration of about 1%. Civetone is closely related to muscone, the principal odoriferous compound found in musk. In general, musks from animals are ketones, and plant musks are lactones (cyclic esters).

Muscone and civetone were the first natural products shown to have rings with more than six atoms. Until the mid-1920s, chemists believed that rings with more than eight atoms were unstable and could not exist. Ružička's large-ring synthesis was the first direct route to cyclic compounds with more than eight members. Molecules with about 14 to 19 atoms in the ring tend to have a musky smell.

Ethiopia is the world's main supplier of civet musk, with 90% of the international export share. The existing musk production covers only 22% of the international demand. In Ethiopia, most civet farmers keep 10-15 civets for years in individual cages. Several serious welfare issues are associated with the production of civet musk. The extraction of the civetone has been criticised by animal rights activists. The African civet has been listed as least concern on the IUCN Red List since 2008. In some parts of Ethiopia, civet musk is traditionally kept in a box alongside clothing, so that the clothes absorb the aroma. Civet musk was also traditionally used as medicine to treat various ailments.

The United States does not allow civets to be imported, as the species can transmit the SARS virus. The US does however permit the importation of civet oil, as long as it has been treated to ensure it is noninfectious.

—

Related: Aldambre · Ambrarome · Ambrein · Ambreine · Ambrettolide · Ambronova · Ammonia · Animal Notes

Цікавий факт

The writer Daniel Defoe once invested in a scheme to raise civets in captivity for their secretions. One kilogram of civet musk can produce 3,000 litres of perfume. Ethiopian keepers believe that captive civets produce less musk if people see them.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Civet is prepared for use in perfumery by solvent extraction to yield either a tincture (10 or 20 percent), an absolute, or a resinoid. Civets are trapped in the wild using a noose with a bell attached. The musk is collected by squeezing a pair of perineal glands on the civet's backside. In Ethiopia, musk is collected using a spoon made from cow horn every 11-12 days during the rainy season and 9-10 days during dry season. Civets typically produce 3g to 4g of musk a week, though it can go as high as 15g. A civet yields about 300 to 400 g of musk a year. Both male and female civets secrete musk, but males are generally preferred because they produce larger quantities and better quality musk. Occasionally musk is collected from signpost where the civet made territorial markings. Informal discussions in southwest Ethiopia in 2007 indicated that some farmers capture civets from the forest and release them back to the wild after collecting musk.

Формула
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: civetone C₁₇H₃₀O; indole; skatole)
CAS
68916-26-7
Ботанічна назва
Civettictis civetta (Schreber, 1776) (African civet) / Viverra zibetha Linnaeus, 1758 (large Indian civet)
Зовнішній вигляд
Soft, almost liquid material, pale yellow when fresh, darkening in the light and becoming salve-like in consistency
Сила запаху
Сильна
Стійкість
Fragrance lasts a long time
Синоніми
Civet musk, civet oil, civet absolute, Zibeth, Zibet, Zibetum
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура кипіння
342 °C (civetone)
Температура плавлення
31 to 32 °C (civetone)

У парфумерії

Civet absolute is used as a flavor and in perfumery. Civet is often replaced by the easily synthesized 5-cyclohexadecen-1-one. The fragrance of civet musk lasts a long time. Civetone, the refined compound of civet musk, is more preferable for high quality perfume industries. Some perfume manufacturers now use only synthetic musk. Perfumeries have a tendency towards the use of synthetic fixatives. The synthetic is not perfectly replacing the natural musk.

Роль у формулі
01фіксатор
02модифікатор
03кістяк
04фірмова нота
05сполучний компонент
06формувач об’єму
Форми випуску
настоянка абсолют резиноїд

Див. також

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