Абсолют цибетину

НатуральнийНАТУРАЛЬНІ Й СИНТЕТИЧНІ, ПОПУЛЯРНІ Й НЕЗВИЧНІтваринний · мускусний · теплий

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—Сила
—Стійкість
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Зразок
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Ноти серця
Civettictis civetta (African civet) / Viverra zibetha (large Indian civet) / Viverricula indica (small Indian civet)
Визначення

Civet absolute is a solvent extract of civet, the glandular secretion produced by both sexes of Viverridae species. As a pure substance its odor is strong, even putrid, but once diluted it is pleasantly and sweetly aromatic.

Animalique
93
Balsamique
78
Poudré
73
Fruité
64
Civet musk, civet oil, Zibeth, Zibet, Zibetum
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Амброві й мускусні
Source
animal-derived
Chemical class
complex natural (absolute)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
Стійкість на блотері
tenacious
Країни-виробники
Ефіопія, Індія, Індонезія (історично; нині переважно синтетичні замінники)

Запах

Civet absolute has a sweet animal-like odor, not very strong but rich and tenacious. As a pure substance the odor is described as animal, fecal, urine, fatty and waxy. When diluted, it produces a radiant, velvety, floral scent. At 100 percent it is also described as honey, balsamic, powdery and fruity. Its olfactive description is animalic, scatol, warm. Civet has a distinctly different odor from musk.

Молекула: виробники й варіанти

Докладно

What it is

Civet is the glandular secretion produced by both sexes of Viverridae species. A number of viverrid species secrete civet oil in their perineal glands, including the African civet (Civettictis civetta), the large Indian civet (Viverra zibetha) and the small Indian civet (Viverricula indica).

Production

Most civet is produced in African farms, where African civets are kept in cages for this purpose. African civets typically produce three to four grams of civet per week. In Ethiopia, civets are found in the wild, then caught and kept in captivity. Males are generally preferred to females because they produce larger quantities and better quality civet musk.

Chemistry

Civetone is a macrocyclic ketone and the main odorous constituent of civet oil, at a concentration of between 2.5 and 3.4%. The oil also includes various other ketones such as cyclopentadecanone, cyclohexadecanone, cycloheptadecanone and 6-cis-cycloheptadecenone. The animal scent is reinforced by smaller amounts of indole and skatole, which in African civet are present at a concentration of about 1%. Civetone is closely related to muscone, the principal odoriferous compound found in musk. The structure of both compounds was elucidated by Leopold Ružička. Today, civetone can be synthesized from precursor chemicals found in palm oil.

Trade and welfare

Ethiopia is the world's main supplier of civet musk, with 90% of the international export share. Following concerns raised by animal rights groups about the mistreatment of captive civets in Ethiopia, musk exportation is an underground industry. Animal rights activists have criticised the extraction of civetone as cruel. The population of the African civet in Botswana is listed under Appendix III of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. The US permits the importation of civet oil, as long as it has been treated to ensure it is noninfectious.

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Related: Aldambre · Ambrarome · Ambrein · Ambreine · Ambrettolide · Ambronova · Ammonia · Animal Notes

Цікавий факт

One kilogram of civet musk can produce 3,000 litres of perfume. Queen Elizabeth II was anointed at her coronation in 1953 with an ointment that included civet musk.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

For use in perfumery, civet is prepared by solvent extraction to yield either a tincture (10 or 20 percent), an absolute or a resinoid. The absolute is made by extraction using volatile solvents followed by a purification in alcohol. A resinoid prepared by extraction with acetone is a dark brown-red mass. The musk is collected by squeezing a pair of perineal glands on the civet's backside. Occasionally musk is collected from signposts where civets have made territorial markings.

Формула
Complex natural mixture (key constituents: civetone C₁₇H₃₀O; indole; skatole)
CAS
68916-26-7
Ботанічна назва
Civettictis civetta (African civet) / Viverra zibetha (large Indian civet) / Viverricula indica (small Indian civet)
Зовнішній вигляд
amber to dark amber semi-solid to solid
Стійкість
tenacious
Синоніми
Civet musk, civet oil, Zibeth, Zibet, Zibetum
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура спалаху
> 200.00 °F. TCC

У парфумерії

Civet absolute is used as a flavor and in perfumery. Civet is commonly used as a fixative in high-end perfumes and soap fragrances. It was formerly an ingredient of fine fragrances. Civet is often replaced by the easily synthesized 5-cyclohexadecen-1-one. Civet musk is valued in the perfume industry because its fragrance lasts a long time.

Роль у формулі
01модифікатор
02фірмова нота
03фіксатор
04тепло
Форми випуску
абсолют синтетична речовина

Див. також

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