Ірис блідий

Iris pallida, the Dalmatian iris or sweet iris, is a bearded iris that grows from a rhizome. Orris butter distilled from its rhizomes smells powdery and floral, reminiscent of violets.
- Type
- Складник
- Olfactive family
- Квіткові
- Source
- rhizome (orris root)
- Chemical class
- complex natural (essential oil)
Запах
Регулювання й зміни формул
Докладно
Цікавий факт
One ton of iris root produces two kilos of essential oil, also referred to as orris root butter or butter of iris. It is the most expensive substance used in the fragrance industry.
Отримання й хімія
Спосіб отримання
Orris rhizomes take three years to grow in the field, and prior to distillation the rhizomes are stored for an additional three years. In the summer of the third year, the plants are dug up entirely, and the rhizomes are sold to the extraction companies as whole rhizomes, peeled or sliced. To obtain black-type orris, harvested rhizomes are washed, sliced and dried, and for white-type orris, they are peeled by hand and undergo slow drying for a few years. The drying of rhizomes begins by spreading the material in one layer in the sun before it is placed in storage. The ground rhizomes of some iris, including Iris pallida, are steam distilled to provide an orris root oil. The steam distillate is a light yellow to brown-yellow solid mass, called orris butter or orris concrete, because it contains high concentrations of myristic and other fatty acids. By industry specification, dry ground rhizome is steam-distilled to obtain orris essential oil, also called orris butter or orris concrete, with a yield of 0.2-0.3% and an irone content of 13-17%. Orris absolute is obtained from orris butter after the removal of the fatty acids with alkali. The orris resinoid is obtained by benzene extraction or using petroleum ether from comminuted dried rhizomes.
- Формула
- Complex natural mixture (key constituents: cis-γ-irone; cis-α-irone; myristic acid)
- CAS
- 90045-90-2
- Ботанічна назва
- Iris pallida
- Зовнішній вигляд
- Cream to light yellow, semi-solid, wax-like, opaque mass
- Сила запаху
- Потужна
- Синоніми
- Dalmatian iris, sweet iris
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
- Температура плавлення
- 40-50 °C
У парфумерії
Orris root is now used mainly as a fixative and base note in perfumery, and for potpourri it is the most common fixative. A small amount of orris root oil is used in high-end perfumes to add a powdery and violet-like scent. Typical iris perfumes are those in which orris prevails over the other components. A commercially available synthetic irone with a higher trans isomer ratio than natural orris root oil seems to smell quite different from it. Orris is also an ingredient in many brands of gin. Orris root is often included in ras el hanout, a blend of herbs and spices used across the Middle East and North Africa. Orris root has been used in tinctures to flavour syrups, and its taste is said to be indistinguishable from raspberry. Orris extract destined for use as a flavor in the food industry in the United States has been assigned GRAS numbers 2829 and 2830.