Резиноїд лабдануму
Labdanum resinoid is a perfume material prepared by extracting crude or cleaned labdanum with a hydrocarbon solvent. Its scent is described as balsamic, ambery, leathery and sweet.
- Type
- Складник
- Olfactive family
- Смолисті
- Source
- resin/gum
- Chemical class
- resinoid (terpenoid resin: labdane-type diterpenes and methylated flavonoids)
Запах
Докладно
Цікавий факт
Cistus ladanifer is an extremely aggressive plant that has taken over much of the former farmland and grasslands in the mountain regions of central Spain and much of southern Portugal. In Spanish it is called Jara pringosa, meaning 'sticky shrub'.
Отримання й хімія
Спосіб отримання
Raw gum is obtained from the leaves and stems of C. ladanifer with alkaline water to remove the surface waxes, followed by acid neutralization, a method used in Andalusia, Spain. The labdanum gum used is most often Spanish labdanum. Petroleum ether has been used more frequently in past years, since it yields a light amber resinoid that holds the most wanted odor principles in high concentration. One Spanish resinoid is made from the gum by ethanolic extraction. The collected twigs are soaked in an alkaline solution, rinsed and filtered to extract the resin. In one process the resin is separated from the water and dried, and solvent extraction then yields the absolute. The raw resin is usually extracted by boiling the leaves and twigs.
- Формула
- Complex natural mixture (key constituents: labdane-type diterpenes; methylated flavonoids)
- CAS
- 8016-26-0
- Ботанічна назва
- Cistus ladanifer
- Зовнішній вигляд
- Red brown semi-solid
- Стійкість
- 100 hour(s) at 20.00 %
- Синоніми
- Cistus ladaniferus resinoid, Cistus ladaniferus L. resinoid
No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)
- Температура спалаху
- > 200.00 °F. TCC (> 93.33 °C.)
У парфумерії
Labdanum is the main ingredient used when making the scent of amber in perfumery, as well as chypre fragrances. Resinoids are mainly used as perfume fixatives. Labdanum is much valued in perfumery because of its resemblance to ambergris, which has been banned from use in many countries because it originates from the sperm whale, an endangered species. Labdanum is used in ambery, chypre and fougère accords, and it gives the composition substantivity. The Spanish resinoid blends well with woody and ambery notes, and gives roundness and body to chypre and oriental accords. Usage levels of up to 10% in the fragrance concentrate are recommended. Labdanum blends well with oakmoss, clary sage, lavender, bergamot, vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli.
Див. також
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