Velvione

СинтетичнийМУСКУС, АМБРОВИЙ АКОРД, ТВАРИННІ ЗАПАХИмускусний · теплий · пудровий
Базові нотиПіраміда
3/5Сила
1годСтійкість
—Походження

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Зразок
Velvione як парфумерна сировина
Базові ноти
Визначення

Velvione is a trade name for 5-cyclohexadecen-1-one, a macrocyclic synthetic musk. It is a powerful, powdery musk with some nitro-musk aspects.

СОЛОДКИЙ АМБРОВИЙ ТВАРИННИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ СВІЖИЙ ВЕРШКОВИЙ
5-Cyclohexadecen-1-one, Ambretone, Musk TM-II, musk amberol
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Амброві й мускусні
Source
Synthetic (macrocyclic musk)
Chemical class
Macrocyclic synthetic musk
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
3/5Сила
Середня
інтенсивність запаху
Стійкість на блотері
1годин
1 год6 год24 год3 дн.7 дн.400 год

Запах

It has a strong musk scent with floral, amber, and civet tones. At 10% in dipropylene glycol, the odour is described as dry, powdery musk, amber and civet. Its olfactive note is musky, powdery and animalic.

Докладно

Chemically, the material is 5-cyclohexadecen-1-one, an unsaturated analog of cyclohexadecanone. Its chemical structure is also similar to that of the natural musk scents civetone and muscone. It can exist as either of two cis/trans isomers, and the commercial product is typically a mixture of the two. It is commercially available as a 40:60 mixture of its (Z)- and (E)-isomers.

Synthetic musks are a class of synthetic aroma compounds that emulate the scent of deer musk and other animal musks. Most musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic. Synthetic musks have a clean, smooth and sweet scent that lacks the fecal notes of animal musks. Macrocyclic ketone musks consist of a single ring of more than 6 carbons, often 10 to 15.

Muscone is a macrocyclic ketone, an organic compound that is the primary contributor to the odor of deer musk. Muscone is a 15-membered ring ketone with one methyl substituent in the 3-position. Since obtaining natural musk requires killing the endangered animal, nearly all muscone used in perfumery and for scenting consumer products today is synthetic.

Macrocyclic ketone musks were not commercially produced or commonly used until the late 1990s, because their synthesis was difficult and their price consequently higher. Nitromusks and polycyclic musks, used for 100 years, have low biodegradability and accumulate in the environment. Velvione is stable and biodegradable.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

—

Related: Aldambre · Ambrarome · Ambrein · Ambreine · Ambrettolide · Ambronova · Ammonia · Animal Notes

Цікавий факт

Muscone, the primary macrocyclic compound of musk, was long known, but only in 1926 was Leopold Ruzicka able to synthesize it, in very small quantities. Ruzicka was joint winner of the 1939 Nobel Prize in Chemistry for his work on polymethylenes and higher terpenes.

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

5-Cyclohexadecenone is a macrocyclic synthetic musk. It can be synthesized in a four-step sequence from cyclododecanone.

Формула
C₁₆H₂₈O
CAS
37609-25-9
Зовнішній вигляд
Colorless clear liquid
Сила запаху
Середня
Стійкість
Highly substantive; tenacity on blotter 1 month +
Синоніми
5-Cyclohexadecen-1-one, Ambretone, Musk TM-II, musk amberol
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Температура кипіння
300 °C
Температура плавлення
25 °C
Температура спалаху
162 °C (closed cup)
Відносна густина
0.93

У парфумерії

It is also used as a substitute for natural musk in perfumes, cosmetics, and soaps. In fine fragrance it adds a powdery volume and musky softness. In laundry care, its high substantivity and clean musky note are highly valued. The use level is 0.2% to 4%.

Роль у формулі
01модифікатор
02фірмова нота
03сполучний компонент
04натуралізатор
05формувач об’єму
06свіжість
Форми випуску
стандартна форма

Див. також

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