Стиракс
Balsamic resin from Liquidambar bark — raw cinnamon sharpness over wet leather, a tarry warmth that refuses to lift. Darker and less polished than benzoin, with an animalic grain that anchors amber and leather compositions. Used in three PREMIEREPEAU fragrances.
- Type
- Складник
- Olfactive family
- Смолисті
- Source
- resin
- Chemical class
- complex natural (resinoid / balsam)
Запах
Сорти й витримка
Докладно
Цікавий факт
Styrene — the monomer behind polystyrene, Styrofoam, and synthetic rubber — takes its name directly from styrax resin. The German apothecary Eduard Simon first isolated it from the balsam in 1839, naming it 'Styrol.' He noticed that the oily distillate thickened into a jelly after several days — the first observation of polymerization — though the mechanism would not be understood for nearly a century, until Hermann Staudinger's macromolecular hypothesis of 1920.
Отримання й хімія
Спосіб отримання
The balsam is harvested by wounding the bark of Liquidambar trees — incisions or stripping of bark sections, traditionally performed between June and September. For L. orientalis in Turkey, the stripped bark is boiled in water to soften, then pressed; the expressed balsam is diluted with water to preserve its aromatic character. For L. styraciflua (Honduras, Guatemala), similar tapping and collection methods are used, with substantially higher yields. The primary commercial form is styrax resinoid, produced by solvent extraction (typically ethanol) of the crude balsam: the mixture is heated to approximately 60°C, then cooled to precipitate waxes, which are filtered before the solvent is evaporated. This yields a viscous, dark amber to brown liquid. Steam distillation of the balsam produces styrax oil, a pale yellow liquid rich in cinnamic acid that partially crystallizes on standing. Oil yield from L. orientalis is under 1%. A third form — pyrogenated styrax — is obtained by destructive dry-distillation of the crude gum, giving a smokier, more phenolic product. Turkey remains the source for L. orientalis; Honduras and Guatemala for L. styraciflua.
- Формула
- Complex mixture — key components: cinnamic acid (C₉H₈O₂), styracin, vanillin (C₈H₈O₃)
- CAS
- 8046-19-3 (L. styraciflua); 94891-27-7 (L. orientalis)
- Ботанічна назва
- Liquidambar orientalis Mill. / Liquidambar styraciflua L.
- Зовнішній вигляд
- amber to amber brown semi-solid to solid
- Сила запаху
- Середня
- Стійкість
- 400 hours at 100.00%
- Синоніми
- STORAX LEVANT STORAX LIQUID STORAX LIQUIDAMBAR
Restricted. Crude gums of L. orientalis and L. styraciflua are prohibited under IFRA standards. Only processed extracts and distillates (resinoids, absolutes, oils) are permitted, with use-level restrictions driven by dermal sensitization potential of cinnamic esters. Fine fragrance (Category 4) limits apply. Always verify against the current IFRA amendment for exact maximum concentrations.
- Температура спалаху
- > 212.00 °F. TCC ( > 100.00 °C. )
- Відносна густина
- 0.98600 to 0.99000 @ 25.00 °C.
- Показник заломлення
- 1.53250 to 1.53900 @ 20.00 °C.
У парфумерії
Fixative and base-note modifier of notable tenacity — styrax persists on blotter well beyond 72 hours. In amber compositions, it supplies the animalic warmth that bridges floral hearts to ambery bases. In leather accords, it delivers the tarry, smoky quality that complements birch tar and suede constructions. It anchors chypre structures alongside labdanum and oakmoss. The resinoid is the standard commercial form; the essential oil, lighter and more cinnamic, lacks the full animalic body. The pyrogenated version pushes the smoky-phenolic character further. Styrax is a named note in three PREMIEREPEAU fragrances. In SIMILI MIRAGE, it appears in the heart as both essence and absolute (Honduras), forming the core of the simili cuir accord alongside thyme, immortelle, and benzoin. In NUIT ELASTIQUE, the essence sits in the fond alongside cistus, benzoin, and cedar. In GRAVITAS CAPITALE, the résinoïde (Honduras, Vulcain grade) anchors the base alongside vetiver and asphalt.
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