Лакфіоль

НатуральнийКВІТИквітковий · солодкий · теплий
Ноти серцяПіраміда
3/5Сила
—Стійкість
1Походження
Зразок
Лакфіоль як парфумерна сировина
Ноти серця
Erysimum cheiri
Визначення

Spiced honey on warm stone. A Brassicaceae anomaly — cabbage-family flower that smells of thymol, carvacrol, and sun-baked clove, with a sulphurous undertow that keeps it from ever reading sweet.

КВІТКОВИЙ ЦИТРУСОВИЙ ЗЕЛЕНИЙ ЗЕМЛИСТИЙ СОЛОДКИЙ ТЕПЛИЙ СВІЖИЙ МЕДОВИЙ
Cheiranthus, Erysimum
Type
Складник
Olfactive family
Квіткові
Source
flower
Chemical class
complex natural (absolute)
Інструменти
Піраміда
ВВерхні ноти
СНоти серця
ББазові ноти
3/5Сила
Середня
інтенсивність запаху
Країни-виробники
Європа

Запах

Warm phenolic spice — thymol-forward, with carvacrol's dry medicinal edge underneath. Less sweet than carnation, less smoky than clove bud, drier than gillyflower. A sulphurous green flash on first approach (dimethyl trisulfide from the living bloom) fades quickly into honeyed warmth. The base is faintly balsamic, with a waxy texture that recalls dried herbs stored in a wooden box.

Докладно

Wallflower (Erysimum cheiri, syn. Cheiranthus cheiri) belongs to the Brassicaceae — the cabbage family. That botanical kinship makes its intense fragrance an oddity: most crucifers smell vegetal or sulphurous, not honeyed-spicy. The flower's scent profile, analysed by GC-MS, reveals thymol (28%) and carvacrol (22%) as dominant volatiles, with dodecane providing a faint waxy backdrop. Static headspace analysis of the living flower detects dimethyl trisulfide as the single largest volatile component — a sulphur compound absent from the dried extract, responsible for the green-sulphurous edge noticeable only when smelling the bloom on the plant.

The olfactory impression is warm, phenolic, and spiced rather than conventionally floral. Thymol lends a thyme-oregano bite; carvacrol reinforces it with a drier, more medicinal quality. The effect is closer to a spice poultice than a bouquet. Underneath, traces of benzyl benzoate and nerolidol contribute a faint balsamic sweetness in the dry-down. The scent is often compared to carnation, but wallflower is drier, more herbal, less powdery.

True wallflower absolute is commercially rare. The flower yields very little extractable material — estimated at 0.01–0.06% by steam distillation — making large-scale production uneconomical. In practice, perfumers reconstruct the note using isoeugenol, benzyl salicylate, thymol, and honey accords. The reconstruction leans heavier on the spicy-sweet axis, omitting the sulphurous living-flower character that only headspace capture reveals.

Explore all seven extraits in the Discovery Set.

—

Related: Abelia · Almond Blossom · Alpha Terpineol · Alstroemeria · Alumroot · Amarillys · Amazon Moonflower · Amethyst Flower

Отримання й хімія

Спосіб отримання

Wallflower absolute is produced by solvent extraction of the flowers, though commercial availability is extremely limited. Steam distillation yields essential oil at 0.01-0.06% — far too low for industrial viability. GC-MS analysis of the oil identifies thymol (28%), carvacrol (22%), and dodecane (11.5%) as principal components, alongside minor amounts of benzyl benzoate and nerolidol. Headspace analysis of living flowers reveals dimethyl trisulfide (66.7%) as the dominant volatile, a compound lost during extraction. Most commercial wallflower oils on the market are blends with other Brassicaceae oils rather than pure E. cheiri extracts.

Формула
N/A — complex natural extract
CAS
N/A — no standard CAS for wallflower absolute
Ботанічна назва
Erysimum cheiri
Зовнішній вигляд
brownish orange viscous liquid
Сила запаху
Середня
Синоніми
Cheiranthus, Erysimum
Статус IFRA
Див. примітку

No IFRA Standard for the material itself (51st Amendment)

Фізичні властивості
Нота
Wallflower (Erysimum cheiri) is not widely produced as an essential oil/absolute commercially. Used as a reconstructed note in perfumery.

У парфумерії

Wallflower functions as a heart-note modifier in spicy-floral and amber compositions. Its thymol-carvacrol profile bridges aromatic-herbal families (thyme, oregano, marjoram) with warm florals (carnation, tuberose). In practice, the note is almost always reconstructed: isoeugenol supplies the warm-spicy backbone, benzyl salicylate adds balsamic fixation, and thymol or carvacrol bring the phenolic bite. Benzyl benzoate serves as both blender and fixative. The reconstructed accord slots into chypre bases, spicy ambers, and fougere-adjacent structures where a warm floral transition is needed. No PREMIEREPEAU fragrance currently features wallflower as a listed note, though the thymol-carvacrol axis overlaps with the aromatic-herbal qualities found in some Mediterranean-inspired compositions.

Роль у формулі
01модифікатор
02фірмова нота
03компонент піднесення
04сполучний компонент
05формувач об’єму
06свіжість
Форми випуску
абсолют

Див. також

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